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The Hague. .Netherlands. MiiRRA, J. 1946. The historic tribes of Ecuador, pp. 78,S-821. /n Steward, J. H.,ed., Handbook of South _.. Vol. 2, The Andean Civilizations. Bulletin 143. Bureau of American Ethnology. Smithsonian Institution. Washington, D < .STOiyi;, R. G. 1981. Fems and feni allies of Guatemala. Part II. Polypodiaceae. Fieldiana: Botany, n.s., 6: 1-522 Illustrations: Illustrations are referred to in the text as "figures" (not as "plates"). Figures must be accompai i indication of scale, normally a reference bar. Statements in Figijre captions alone, such as " x 0.8," are n Style. Figures as submitted should, whenever practicable, be H'/i by 11 inches (22 x 28 cm) and may not exceed li'/: i^ 16'/? inches (30 x 42 cm). Illustrations should be mounted on boards in the arrangement you wish to obtain in il; printed work. 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Changes in pau proofs (as opposed 'o . omw iuiMsi are vi'ry ' ' ' wr-generated changes in page proofs can onh ' ' the author agrees in advance to pay for them Emmons's Notes on Field Museum's Collection of Northwest Coast Basketry: Edited with an Ethnoarchaeological Analysis Map of the northern part of the Northwest Coast, showing the land of the THngits and their neighbors. FIELDIANA Anthropology NEW SERIES, NO. 9 Emmons's Notes on Field Museum's Collection of Northwest Coast Basketry: Edited with an Ethnoarchaeological Analysis Ronald L. Weber Collections Manager Department of Anthropology Field Museum of Natural History Chicago, Illinois 60605-2496 Accepted for publication August 8, 1985 June 30, 1986 Publication 1366 PUBLISHED BY FIELD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY © 1986 Field Museum of Natural History Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 85-82323 ISSN 0071-4739 PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Table of Contents Introduction 1 Acknowledgments 2 Description of Baskets 3 Illustrations of baskets and designs (figs. 1-31) 50 Ethnoarchaeological Analysis 81 Basketry Types 81 Analysis of Tlingit Basketry Forms 83 Conclusions 85 Appendix Key to Scales 85 Scales (I-V) of baskets and mats in the Emmons collection, use of Tlingit berry baskets, and weaves (figs. 32- 38) 86 Glossary I: Tlingit Terms 94 Glossary II: Technical Terms 100 Literature Cited 102 List of Illustrations Map of the northern Northwest Coast Frontispiece 1 . Baskets 1 and 2 50 2. Baskets 3 and 4 51 3. Baskets 5 and 6 52 4. Baskets 7 through 11 53 5. Baskets 1 2 through 15 54 6. Baskets 16 through 32 55 7. Baskets 33 through 38 56 8. Baskets 39 through 52 57 9. Baskets 53 through 60 58 10. Baskets 61 through 65 59 1 1 . Baskets 66 through 70 60 12. Baskets 71 through 77 61 1 3. Baskets 78 through 84 62 14. Baskets 85 through 92 63 15. Baskets 93 through 101, and 103 64 16. Baskets 104 through 114 65 17. Baskets 115 through 120 66 18. Baskets 121 through 140 67 19. Baskets 141 through 152 68 20. Baskets 153, 156 through 161, and 165 69 2 1 . Baskets 1 66 through 178 70 22. Baskets 179 through 189 71 23. Baskets 190 through 193 72 24. Baskets 194 through 200 73 25. Baskets 201 through 205 74 26. Baskets 208 through 212 75 27. Baskets 2 1 3 through 221 76 28. Baskets 222 through 230, and 232 through 236 77 29. Baskets 237 through 243 78 30. Baskets 245 through 253 79 31. Tlingit basketry designs 80 32. Scale of all baskets in the Emmons collection 86, 87 33. Scale of cylindrical baskets 88, 89 34. Scale of circular mats 90 35. Scale of hemispherical baskets 90 36. Scale of double baskets 91 37. Tlingit berry baskets 92 38. Basketry weaves 93 Emmons's Notes on Field Museum's Collection of Northwest Coast Basketry: Edited with an Ethnoarchaeological Analysis Introduction George Thornton Emmons visited southeastern Alaska for the first time in 1882, as a lieutenant aboard the USS Adams, the gunboat that served as a law enforcement center for the newly pur- chased territory of Alaska. His father, George Foster Emmons, a distinguished naval officer who took part in the Wilkes Exploring Expedition of the late 1830s, may have stimulated his son's in- terest in the Northwest Coast (Low, 1977, p. 3). One can imagine Lieutenant Emmons being influ- enced by his father's stories of an overland trip from the mouth of the Columbia River to San Francisco in 1840-1841, when most of this area was still dominated by native inhabitants. The young Emmons acquired an interest in ex- ploration, reading widely of the exploits of trav- elers and their descriptions of foreign cultures. Though family tradition surely played a part in Emmons's decision to enter the U.S. Naval Acad- emy at Annapolis, from which he graduated in 1874, his childhood interests cannot be ignored. Emmons had little experience in ethnography prior to coming to Alaska, yet he soon became the fore- most authority on Tlingit culture, collecting nearly 10,000 Tlingit artifacts in his lifetime. Major col- lections made by Emmons can be found in the American Museum of Natural History and the Museum of the American Indian, New York; the U.S. National Museum of Natural History, Wash- ington, D.C.; Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto; National Museum of Man, Ottawa; Burke Me- morial Washington State Museum, University of Washington, Seattle; Milwaukee Public Museum, Milwaukee; and Field Museum of Natural His- tory. Smaller quantities of materials collected by Emmons are found at Princeton University, Princeton, N.J.; Peabody Museum, Yale Univer- sity, New Haven, Conn.; the University Museum, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia; Alaska State Museum, Juneau; Peabody Museum, Har- vard University, Cambridge, Mass.; Provincial Museum in Victoria, British Columbia; and the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sitka, Alaska (Douglas Cole and Jean F. Low, pers. comns.). Field Museum purchased several of Emmons's collections of Tlingit specimens. The first (acces- sion 807), consisting of 1,439 items, offers a wide range of shamanistic paraphernalia as well as hunt- ing and collecting equipment. Carl Spuhn, man- ager of the Northwest Trading Company during the 1890s, was the original collector. Another (accession 829) includes 95 pieces of Tlingit and Kwakmtl ethnographical materials. The Tlingit basketry collection (accession 843), with which we are most concerned here, was received in 1903. These baskets and a similar collection at the Amer- ican Museum of Natural History were analyzed by Emmons to gather data for his important work. The Basketry of the Tlingit (Emmons. 1903). While Field Museum's collection of 253 baskets is mostly of northern Tlingit origin, some southern Tlingit, Nootkan, Haida, Eskimo, and Aleut pieces estab- lish significant regional contrasts. Extensive notes accompanied the Emmons basket collection, iden- tifying most pieces as to location of manufacture and collection, including tribal and village names. Tlingit names for basketry forms, weaving tech- niques, and designs are usually present. The col- lection was carefully documented, though a few of the descriptions do not match the baskets cata- loged (841 16, 84192, and 84197). Emmons collected artifacts from both Indian WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY and non-Indian sources. He had some ability to speak Tlingit and certainly consulted Indian in- formants to obtain his excellent documentation. Tlingit terms used by Emmons correspond well to those described by Nora Dauenhauer in the Ap- pendix to Spruce Root Basketry of the Alaska Tlingit (1981). The terms used by Emmons are certainly transcriptions of legitimate Tlingit words used to describe functional and decorative cate- gories. It is not, however, clear to what degree Emmons may have relied on his own knowledge to add to or bolster the available information, for there is no precise indication of the way he ob- tained his documentation. Emmons may have dis- cussed each item with a Tlingit maker or user, yet we cannot discount the probability that he devel- oped his own understanding of weaves, designs, and forms. Emmons may have classified many of the baskets according to a taxonomy that he learned through close contacts with the Tlingit; Low (pers. comn.) agrees that Emmons probably provided much of the documentation from his own under- standing of Tlingit culture. If the information collected by Emmons derives in part from his concept of Tlingit culture, we should be especially careful of the sample, but for- tunately the scales in the Appendix largely support his catalog descriptions and can be viewed as in- dep)endent verification of the Tlingit basketry forms he described. The catalog information regarding the few southern Tlingit, Haida, Nootkan, Aleut, and Eskimo baskets cannot be fully evaluated with this sample, although it appears to identify and describe them correctly. In order to make the catalog information readily accessible to researchers, it has been reorganized in a standard format. The first number for each entry is an identification number or field number used by Emmons (corresponding numbers appear on illustrations immediately following descrip- tions). Following this number is Field Museum's catalog number. To the right of these numbers are the basket's dimensions in centimeters. Following this basic information. Emmons's documentation has been reordered within the following categories: type (if the Tlingit word for the category is pro- vided); function (if the use of the basket is de- scribed); construction (if the materials and weav- ing techniques are described); ornamentation (to provide information on material and decorative technique); and provenience (to provide infor- mation on place of manufacture and use as well as collection). Dimensions and photographs have been added and, in some cases, decorative mate- rials have been identified. All information which appears in parentheses has been supplied by the editor. Some changes in terminology have also been made to reflect modem usage. Emmons used the word "woof for the flexible horizontal elements of a weave; here, the word "weft" appears in its place. The decorative technique Emmons called "embroidery" is reidentified as "false embroi- dery." For definitions of other technical terms used in the text, see Glossary II: Technical Terms. For a discussion of basketry technology, see Adovasio (1977). Tlingit terms are spelled as they appear in Em- mons's published works, though modem tribal designations are used. Emmons's original notes combined many Tlingit terms with their transla- tion, whereas here Tlingit terms define basket types, weaves, and designs. Glossary I: Tlingit Terms provides Emmons's translation of terms. Also in- cluded in Glossary I is a more up-to-date tran- scription of the Tlingit words. These transcriptions have been taken from Dauenhauer's work (1981) and, when available, are included in parentheses following Emmons's transcription. An ethnoar- chaeological analysis and accompanying scales (figs. 32-36) reveal most of the important Tlingit bas- ketry form categories. These scales demonstrate that Emmons's description of functional cate- gories is based on actual shapes and dimensions that can be discovered and isolated without the aid of Tlingit informants. Acknowledgments Many people provided assistance in preparing this manuscript, but I particularly wish to ac- knowledge the help of two Field Museum volun- teers. Helen Gayner patiently typed and helped to edit many of the drafts, while Connie Crane pro- vided valuable advice and editorial assistance. Pe- ter L. Corey of the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sit- ka, Alaska, reviewed the manuscript; many of the changes he suggested have been incorporated into this final version. Douglas Cole of Simon Eraser University, Bumaby, British Columbia, provided information on collections made by George Thornton Emmons for other museums. Jean F. Low, Emmons's foremost biographer, kindly pro- vided documentation and opinions on his col- lecting procedures. Sylvia Schueppert of Field Mu- seum's stafl" kindly prepared the final drafts. My FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY wife, Nancy L. Fagin, also provided editorial as- sistance. I thank David Dann for drawing the frontispiece and Figures 31, 37, and 38. which were originally prepared for Field Museum's Maritime Peoples of the Arctic and Northwest Coast exhibition. The remainder of the figures are fully my responsibil- ity, though Field Museum photographers Ron Testa and Diane Alexander-White provided m- dispensable advice and assistance. Description of Baskets 1. 84001 Diameter 43.0 cm. depth 39.0 cm T\PE—Kluckt tar-tu'n Function— Placed in a central position m the ber- ry patch and filled from baskets carried on the back by a woman gathering berries. Also used upon feast occasions to hold berries and other native foods. Guests were served from these supplies. Construction— Made and mended with spruce root. Bottom and sides are of two-strand twined weave (two-strand twining). The bottom is strengthened by circles of embroidered twist in spruce root. Handles are of two-strand rope of twisted root. This basket is finished by turning the warp ends down on the inside and twining them in with two strands. A row of false em- broidery strengthens and protects the warp where it bends inward. (This is the most common bor- der form, referred to by Emmons as the regular finish [Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7]. On completed baskets, borders 9 and 10 cannot be easily distinguished from border 7. In this paper, no distinction has been made between borders 7, 9, and 10). Ornamentation— False embroidery in natural and red grass. Bands of design include tla-thlu' and klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Four rows of ver- tical figures known to the Sitka people as sig- ga-dee' tee'-shee and to the more northern Tlingit as ut-tu-wa 'rk-kee extend down the plain field from the lower decorative band. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Sitka. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, or middle weave, consisting of alternate rows of twining and plaiting. The flaring walls are in open cross warp weave between bands of close weave, or two-strand twined weave (two-strand twining). The border is finished by turning down the warp ends on the inside and holding them in place with twined weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, bor- der 7). Ornamentation— False embroidery in natural and dyed grass. The two outer bands are in the thluhl k-yar-nee design; the middle band is in ska 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Hoonah, the Hoo- nah tribe. 3. 84003 Diameter 46.0 cm, depth 42.0 cm Type— Kluckt tar-tu'n Function— Used both as a berry basket and as a feast basket for ceremonial occasions. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). It is strengthened about the bottom by embroidered twist. The border edge is finished by turning over the warp ends and securing them with the weft (Emmons, 1 903, p. 247, border 7). The last spirals of weave are strengthened with embroidered twist. The basket is fitted with two double handles of bear hide. Ornamentation— False embroidery in natural and dyed grass. The two outer and broader or- namental bands are in the kou'sh-tar kiis-see'- tee design and the narrow middle is in ut kheet- see'-tee. Below the decorative bands on oppo- site sides are pictures in grass in the shon ghe- kulth kah ka'tch-ul-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found in the possession of a very old woman, of the Tuck-clae-way tee clan of the Chilkat tribe, living at Klukwan. It was folded away and hidden in the loft of a hut where it had been for many years. Traded from the Yakutat or Hoonah people many years prior (to 1903). 2.84002 Diameter 38.5 cm, depth 21.5 cm 4.84004 Diameter 44.0 cm, depth 41.5 cm Type— Tchu-qwelth Function — Used by women to store pieces of work or clothing. Type— Kluckt tar-tu'n Function— Used to carry berries. The Chilkats are great berry people. They prepare large quan- WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY titles of soapberries, hook dee, by boiling and processing them into flat cakes for winter use. Since soapberries are found only on the main- land, the cakes are traded to the island tribes. Construction— Made of spruce root. The weave of this basket, like most Chilkat work, is com- posed of alternate rows, two-strand twined weave (two-strand twining) and plaiting over and un- der alternate warps. This weave is known as khark-ghee-su't. Around the mouth of the bas- ket is a band of the common twined weave (two- strand twining). (The border corresponds to Em- mons's number 12 in his 1903 report.) Ornamentation— The Chilkat type of basket lacking ornamentation other than in natural root is known under the general name of son- nay. Ornamentation in plain root is produced by the skip stitch known to the Tlingit as itiktch he- ha'r-see. At regular intervals the weft strands cross over two instead of one warp strand, there- by producing geometric figures known as sha 'r- dar yar-a 'r-kee. This pattern or style of work is most often found on the brims of spruce root hats. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the upper Chilkat village of the Chilkat tribe. 6. 84006 Diameter 44.5 cm, depth 37.2 cm 5. 84005 Diameter 45.0 cm, depth 42.5 cm Type— Kluckt tar-tu'n Function— An old basket used more at feasts than in berry gathering. Construction— Made m ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) of heavy spruce root. The bottom is strengthened with circles of embroi- dered twist in root. Double handles are of bear hide. The upper edge around the mouth is fin- ished in the usual way by turning the ends of the warp strands down on the inside (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Most carefully woven with or- namentation of natural and colored grass. Both decorative bands show a design known to the Yakutats as guth-lu 'h-ku and to the Chilkats as sarh-shar tootsee. Below the decorative bands are vertical lines of ornamentation in grass rep- resenting klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Haines, Deshu, but not the work of the Chilkats. Clearly of Yak- utat workmanship and procured in trade. (Il- lustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. VIII, no 5.) Type— Tchii-qwelth Function — Used as a trunk for clothing. Construction— Made in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) of spruce root. The bottom is reinforced with circles of twisted stitch en- closing the outer weft strand. The upper edge has five rows of false embroidery around the weft strand and the edge is in the usual finish, with the warp ends turned over and down along the preceding strand and enclosed in the twining (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Two broad ornamental bands of false embroidery in natural and colored grass are in similar designs, sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee and gi' pick- ing. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining), with the bottom strongly reinforced by many spirals of overlay- ing twist. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Two broader false embroidery bands are in the sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee design, separated by a more conventionalized variant of the design known to the Yakutat as gitth-lu 'h- ku. The narrow medial band is in the ut kheet- see'-tee design. Below the ornamental bands at equal intervals are four designs, two each of hoot: kus-see'-lee and thluhl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul. Kodiak Island, where it was used to store roots and ber- ries. Because of age and wear, it has been cut down several inches in height. Of Yakutat work- manship, it was procured in trade. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. VI, no. 4.) 59. 84059 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 7.2 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Used by a woman as a workbasket. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave; sides and top are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— False embroidery in grass. The walls are in a double variant of the giith-lu'h- ku design. The thlukh qwar-ye'-tee design runs around the bottom of the walls and both the edge and outer circumference of the cover. The raised center of the cover is in the gwulth ha cou 'tch-ee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 60. 84060 Diameter 36.0 cm, depth 33.8 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Its size is rather too great to carry on the back, and it was used more to hold berries poured m from the baskets carried on the back. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The bottom is reinforced by circles of embroidered twist, which also appears at the bottom of the sides. The upper edge is finished by turning in the warp ends (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Fitted with two single handles of hide. Ornamentation — The two broader false em- broidery bands are in the kou'sh-tar kus-see'- tee design and the narrow middle band is in ut kheet-see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Klukwan, the winter village of the Chilkat tribe on the Chilkat River, but originally procured in trade from the Yakutat people living on the seacoast about Be- ring Bay. 61. 84061 Diameter 35.5 cm. depth 28.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Carried on top of the back to receive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished by turning the warp ends under and twining them in with the standing warp (Emmons, 1 903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Two broader bands of false embroidery are in the ut-tu-wa'rk-kee design, as named by the Yakutat. This design overlays narrow bands of dyed spruce root in the yan- nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see design. The narrow medial band is in the ut kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found folded up and pre- served as an heirloom of an old Chilkat family at Klukwan on the Chilkat River. It is of Yakutat or Hoonah workmanship and was evidently procured in trade from the south. (Illustrated in Emmons. 1903, pi. VI, no. 2.) 62. 84062 Diameter 15.0 cm, depth 14.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck for freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in open weave and the sides are in close weave (two-strand twining). The top is finished by turning down the ends of the warp strands along with the top two weft strands (Emmons, 1903. p. 247, border 8). Ornamentation— The upper and lower bands of false embroidery are in the thlukh qwar-ye'-tee design. The narrow middle band is composed of the thluhl k-yar-nee and kah-ghu 'n kar-ha 'r- ku designs. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 15 Provenience— Tlingit. From Sinta-ka-heen-ee, the Auk tribe, but more probably of Hoonah make. 63. 84063 Diameter 28.0 cm, depth 24.2 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Baskets of this character were often used for packing away small pieces of clothing and, in that case, may or may not be fitted with handles of twisted root or hide. Construction— Made of spruce root in the reg- ular close weave (two-strand twining) through- out. The finished edge is worked by turning down the ends of the warp strands on the inside, with three spirals of embroidered weave used to strengthen the edge (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The two broader bands of false embroidery are in the thiukh qwar-ye'-tee de- sign; the medial band is in ;// kheet-see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 64. 84064 Diameter 29.0 cm, depth 29.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function — Used on top of the back to carry ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root in middle, or khark-ghee-su't, weave, except around the base and in the wake of the ornamental bands. Above and below the ornamental bands and around the outer circumference of the bottom are circles of the three-strand twist. The upper edge at the mouth is finished in a four-strand plaiting (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands are in the design known to this tribe as sarh-shar tootsee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay, Cross Sound, the Hoonah Kow. off flush at the upper edge (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— The upper and lower false em- broidery bands are in the sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee and kin-da' r-kar designs. The two bands en- closing the narrow middle band are in klaok shar yar kee'-kee and kon-naste. while the nar- row middle band is in klake da kheet-see'-tee. The purple black material used in the false em- broidery is the stem of the maidenhair fern. Dyed and natural grass is also used in the false em- broidery, while the narrow bands of color are composed of dyed spruce root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. This basket was made in 1897. 66. 84066 Diameter 42.0 cm, height 32.0 cm Type— Ceremonial hat Function— A very finely woven and beautiful specimen which was worn at feasts and cere- monies by either sex. Surmounted by four cyl- inders. Construction — Made of spruce root. The weave of the crown of the hat is in ropelike three-ply twist. The outsides of the four cylinders mount- ed on top are in the same weave. The rim of the hat is in close weave combined with skip stitch, thereby producing geometric figures in the weave itself The edge is finished in plaiting with the warp ends trimmed flush (Emmons. 1903, p. 246, border 6). Ornamentation — The whole of the hat is orna- mentally painted in red, blue, and black to rep- resent a raven, the totemic design of the wearer's clan. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 67. 84067 Diameter 21.0 cm, depth 20.0 cm 65. 84065 Diameter 28.0 cm. depth 23.2 cm Type— Tchu-qwelth Function — Made for use as a receptacle for cloth- ing and woman's work. Construction— Of spruce root in khark-ghee-su 7 weave on the bottom and the regular close weave (two-strand twining) over the walls. Simply cut Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Carried on the back for berry picking. Construction — Made of spruce root in the reg- ular close weave (two-strand twining), but of a very heavy, coarse material. Around the base are several circles of three-strand twist. The up- per edge is finished in the regular fashion (Em- mons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The false embroidery in grass 16 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY is peculiar in that it covers almost the entire wall. The two broad bands are in the dar-war tar-yee design, while the two narrow bands are in sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul. Kodiak Island, but from Kayak Island or Controller Bay and procured in trade from the Guth-le-uk quan people. (Illustrated in Emmons. 1903, pi. V, no. 4.) been procured in trade from the Yakutat tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. X, no. 5.) 68. 84068 Diameter 20.5 cm, depth 19.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function —Carried around the neck to hold fresh- ly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in the reg- ular close weave (two-strand twining). At the outer edge of the bottom is a single row of the three-strand twist. The upper edge is regularly finished (Emmons. 1903, p. 247, border 7). Orn.'VMENTation — The two wider false embroi- dery bands are in the design sha 'r-dar yar-a ' r- kee and the narrow medial band is in kitch hon- ar-ghart. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 69. 84069 Diameter 27.0 cm, depth 13.0 cm Type— Kuhk tar-yee Function — An old-fashioned cooking basket, called a half basket for the lowness of its walls in proportion to its diameter. It is a unique spec- imen and the only old basket of this character ever seen (by Emmons). Construction— Made of spruce root in regular close weave (two-strand twining). Carefully woven of extra-heavy root strands, reinforced by overlaying twist on the bottom, and strength- ened about the base by three lines or circles of three-strand twist. The top is finished off in the usual manner (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Where the basket has broken, it is sewn to- gether with sinew. Ornamentation— The walls are ornamented in three bands of false embroidery, the two outer ones in the thluhlk-yar-nee and kah-ghu 'n kar- ha 'r-ku designs, the middle one in the Yakutat design giith-lu'h-ku. Provenience— Tlingit. Found in an old house at Klukwan, the Chilkat tribe, but believed to have 70. 84070 Diameter 30.0 cm, depth 30.2 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function — It seems most probable that this is an experimental piece of the type carried on the back when picking berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining), reinforced about the base by several cords of the three- strand twist. The upper edge is finished in the usual manner (Emmons. 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— (Emmons wrote that this is a very old and interesting specimen, as it is the only basket he had ever seen that had worked upon it a realistic animal or bird figure. The two broad bands of false embroidery are in a design which he had never met elsewhere. The lozenge in any other basket would mean sig-ga-dee 'tee'- shee. but here it encloses another figure which is thought to represent a spear barb. Emmons is not certain of the identification of the spear barb design.) The narrow medial band is in the ut kheet-see'-tee design. Below the ornamental bands are four pictures in straw unknown to any basket maker today, two of which represent birds, probably geese from their long necks. The two other pictures are wholly fanciful and represent nothing known. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. VI, no. 6.) 71. 84071 Diameter 27.5 cm. depth 23.8 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Carried on the back for berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The bottom and base are strengthened with several rows of overlaying twist. The upper edge is finished after the usual manner (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, bor- der 7). Ornamentation— The two broader bands of false embroidery are in the kou'sh-tar kus-see'-tee design. The middle band is in the ut kheet-see'- tee pattern. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but procured in trade from Kayak Island WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 17 or Yakutat Bay. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903. pi. VI, no. 5.) 72. 84072 Diameter 24.5 cm. depth 2 1 .0 cm TYPE—Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Carried on the back for berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. It is a very finely woven basket in regular close weave (two- strand twining). Finished about the upper edge after the usual style (Emmons. 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation - The two broader bands of false embroidery are in a variation of the tla-thlu ' design, enclosing the figure klaok shar yar kee'- kee. Below the decorative bands on two sides is the yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see design. Provenience -Tlingit. Found at Klukwan, the Chilkat tribe. (Illustrated m Emmons, 1903, pi. V, no. 6.) 73. 84073 Diameter 27.0 cm. depth 23.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Worn on the back to carry berries. Construction— In ordinary close weave (two- strand twining), reinforced about the base in overlaid extra weft twist and three-strand twist. The upper edge is finished in the usual way (Em- mons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation -The two broader false em- broidery bands are in qwun kheet-see'-tee and the middle band is in the tla-thlu ' and klaok shar yar kee'-kee designs. PROVENiENCE-Tlingit. Found at St. Paul. Kodiak Island, but procured in trade from Kayak Island or Yakutat Bay. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. VII, no. 2.) 74. 84074 Diameter 20.0 cm, depth 19.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Worn on the back to carry berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su'l weave and the walls are in close weave (two-strand twining). The upper edge is in the ordinary finish (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The two outer false embroi- dery bands are in the most ornate form of the hoot: kus-see'-tee design. The middle band is in the tla-thlu ' and klaok shar yar kee'-kee de- signs. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. V, no. 5.) 75.84075 Diameter 19.0 cm, depth 16.0 cm | Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold fresh- ly picked berries. | Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- ^ tom is in middle weave, khark-ghee-su 't. and the walls are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The upper edge has been finished in four-strand plaiting (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— The two wider bands are false embroidered in kha'-tu or kon-naste ar-kee'- kee. The medial band is a variant of the tla- thlu ' design, enclosing klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Below the ornamental band are unique figures known as khark kha 'rt-se. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe, but believed to have been made by the Hoonah people of Cross Sound. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. V, no. 1.) 76. 84076 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 17.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold fresh- ly picked berries. Construction — Made of spruce root in middle, or khark-ghee-su 't. weave, except in the wake of the ornamental false embroidery. The upper edge is finished in the usual way (Emmons. 1 903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The two broader false em- broidery bands are in the thluhl k-yar-nee de- sign, with the complimentary triangular area in plain root in hootz kus-see'-tee. The middle band is in the ut kheet-see'-tee pattern. Provenience -Tlingit. From Deshu, the Chilkoot branch of the Chilkat tribe. (Illustrated in Em- mons, 1903, pi. V, no. 3.) 77. 84077 Diameter 16.0 cm, depth 13.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar 18 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Function— Suspended from the neck to carry ber- ries. Construction — Made of spruce root in kliark- ghee-su't weave, except in the wake of the or- namentation, where it is in close weave (two- strand twining). The upper edge is finished in the usual manner (Emmons. 1903. p. 247. bor- der 7). Ornamentation — The false embroidery' band is in the tla-thlu ' design, enclosing the figure klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From KJukwan. the Chil- kat tribe, but procured from the Sitka or Hoonah tribes. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. V, no. 2.) 80. 84080 Diameter 38.0 cm. depth 27.5 cm Type — Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function — Worn on the back to carry berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (The border is of type 1, Emmons. 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The two broader false em- broidery bands are in the yehlh ta-ka ' design, enclosing klaok shar yar kee'-kee. The narrow middle band is ut kheet-see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found in use at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but procured in trade from Kay- ak Island or Yakutat Bay. 81.84081 Diameter 28.0 cm, depth 23.8 cm 78. 84078 Diameter 14.0 cm. depth 17.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah lo'n-nar Function— Suspended from the neck to carry ber- ries. Construction— The bottom is in khark-ghee-su '! weave, the sides in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). Two strengthening rows of three- strand twist are at the base. The upper edge is finished in four-strand plaiting (Emmons, 1903, p. 248. border 12). Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands are in the yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo. Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 79. 84079 Diameter 12.8 cm, depth 1 1.2 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended from the neck to carry ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root in middle, or khark-ghee-su 't, weave, except in the wake of the false embroidery, where it is in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished in border 7, Em- mons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation — The single false embroidery band is really a combination of two bands with the same design (reflected) in the lower one. It represents tla-thlu ' enclosing the figure klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo. the Huts- nuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. X, no. 3.) Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Worn on the back to carry berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 't weave and the walls are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twin- ing). The top edge was originally in the usual finish, although this has disappeared with use (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The false embroidery band in grass is the design thlukh qwar-ye'-tee, enclos- ing an area of natural spruce root in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. (Three bands of col- ored weft material make up the field for this design.) Vertically arranged above and below the ornamental zone is the ars suck har ha '- yar-ku design; this false embroidery is in grass and the stem of maidenhair fern. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe; made in 1884. 82. 84082 Diameter 24.5 cm, depth 22.0 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Carried on the back to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The walls are in regular close weave (two-strand twining). The bottom is in the close and khark-ghee-su 't weaves. The top has been cut ofl~ at the upper edge of the ornamental zone (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border I). Ornamentation— The two broad false embroi- dery bands of grass are in the ut tu-tihk-kha and ut-tu-wa'rk-kee designs; the middle band is in klake da kheet-see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 19 kat tribe. A very old specimen of great beauty which originally came from Yakutat. (Illustrat- ed in Emmons, 1903, pi. VIII, no. 3.) 83. 84083 Diameter 16.0 cm, depth 9.8 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— A covered type, used as a woman's workbasket or for small articles. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave, while the walls are in close weave (two-strand twining), as is the cover. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The bands of false embroidery in plain and colored grass around the walls and on the cover are in the khu won kits say-ya '- yee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sinta-ka-heen-ee, near Juneau, the Auk tribe, but from the or- namentation and the general character of the basket, (Emmons believed) it was woven by a Hoonah woman. 84. 84084 Diameter 29.0 cm, depth 23.5 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function — Ornamented with dentalia and beads in the fashion of a doctor's drinking basket and said to have been used for that purpose, al- though it is not of that type. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave, khark-ghee-su 't. and the walls are in regular close weave (two-strand twining). The upper border has been cut off flush with the decorative zone (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— The two broader bands of false embroidery in grass are in a variant of the sarh- shar tootsee design. The narrow middle line is in the ut kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found in an old, tumble- down grave house of a shaman on Chatham Strait, Admiralty Island. (Illustrated in Em- mons, 1903, pi. VIII, no. 4.) 85. 84085 Diameter 24.5 cm, depth 24.2 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r. known to the Chilkat as son-nay Function— Carried on the back to receive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The body of the basket is in middle, or khark-ghee-su' t, weave, so popular with the Chilkat. It is of very beautiful workmanship, in very fine strands of root, and fitted with bear hide handles. The up- per edge is finished in the characteristic Chilkat four-strand weft plaiting (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 1 2). Ornamentation— The upper band around the mouth is in close weave with a skip stitch or- namentation in the geometric design known as yehlh ta-ka ' . (Emmons also uses the word sark qwa a 'r-kee, which he translates as hat work, for this design.) Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. Illustrative of their particular work, in technique and ornamentation. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. VIII, no. 1.) 86. 84086 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 16.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended around the neck to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in the khark-ghee-su 't weave. The walls are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twin- ing)- Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands in grass and fern stem are in designs so often found in combination, shuh-luck ou-hu'. kohk-thla'-ku, and ku klate-ar ku-ou. Between the parallelograms in the upper band is the yan- nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see design; below are loz- enges cut in half representing klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Kake tribe, about Keku Strait. 87. 84087 Diameter 31.0 cm, depth 26.0 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Carried on the back to hold berries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 7 weave, the sides are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining), and the upper edge is in the usual finish (Em- mons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands (in grass and fern stem) are separated by a narrow line of plain root. The design, sarh- 20 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY shar tootsee, is produced (by mirror reflection) along a horizontal axis. Provenience— Tlingit. Found in the Queen Char- lotte Islands and procured in trade from the northern Tlingit. 88. 84088 Diameter 23.0 cm, depth 13.2 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— A woman's covered workbasket with a rattle top. Construction— Made of spruce root. The walls and cover are in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining) and the bottom is in khark-ghee- su't weave. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides are false embroi- dered in grass and fern stem with the kishst and klaok shar yar kee'-kee designs and a variant of kon-nasle. The cover is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From either Hoonah or Sitka. 89. 84089 Diameter 20.2 cm, depth 13.5 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Used as a workbasket. Construction— In ordinary close weave (two- strand twining) throughout. (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The walls are ornamented in grass with the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From St. Paul, Kodiak Is- land, but of Yakutat workmanship and procured in trade from this tribe. 90. 84090 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 13.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Used as a woman's workbasket. Construction— Made of spruce root in the or- dinary close weave (two-strand twining) throughout. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons. 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides of the basket are false embroidered in dyed and natural grass with the guth-lu'h-ku design. The cover is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design and the raised central chamber is in the gwulrh ha cou 'tch-ee figure. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Hoonah or Sitka tribes. 91. 84091 Diameter 17.0 cm, depth 9.8 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Covered workbasket with rattle in the top. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Em- mons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides are false embroi- dered in natural grass with the khartse kut-r- ka-dee design, while the central raised cover of the rattle compartment is a distorted represen- tation of thluhl k- yar- nee. Provenience— THngit. From the Hoonah or Sitka tribes. 92. 84092 Diameter 14.8 cm, depth 6.2 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Covered basket with rattle in the top, used by women to keep work and small articles. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) throughout. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides are in a combination of false embroidery designs in grass and Equi- setum often found on old baskets. The designs include shuh-tuck ou-hu', kohk-thla'-ku, and klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Around the bottom of the cover these designs are represented in half sections. The top surface of the cover is in the thluhl k-yar-nee design, while the cover of the rattle compartment is in the gwulrh ha cou 'teh- ee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Sitka or Hoonah districts. 93. 84093 Diameter 13.0 cm, depth 7.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— A covered basket with a rattle in the top. Used by women as a workbox for small articles. The cover is missing. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 't weave and the sides, in the wake of the ornamentation, are in ordi- WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 21 nary close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons. 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery of the sides is in grass with the ars suck har ha'-yar- ku design. The space between the false embroi- dery forms the ut-tu-wa'rk-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but procured in trade from the Yakutats. 94. 84094 Diameter 1 1.0 cm, depth 8.5 cm ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass and fern stems, the sides are in sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee; within is the kon-naste design. The cover is a distorted variant of the hootz kus-see'-tee design, made to conform to the circular field. In the center is the gwulth ha cou 'tch-ee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Sitka or Hoonah districts. Type— (Not identified.) Function— (Not identified.) Construction— The Haida made very few cov- ered baskets and seldom employed this char- acter of ornamentation. The basket and cover are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) throughout. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Basket and cover are orna- mented with dyed weft material. The designs are known to the Tlingit as shuck kuhk, alter- nated with yuhh thlu-thlee'te nu'-ku. Provenience— Haida. From Prince of Wales Is- land, Haida area. 97. 84097 Diameter 18.8 cm, depth 7.8 cm 95. 84095 Diameter 19.0 cm, depth 8.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck • Function— Used by the women as a receptacle for work and small articles. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom and a portion of the top are in khark-ghee- su't weave. The top carries a rattle. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides, with false embroi- dery in grass and fern stems, are in the sarh- shar tootsee design. The top is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Hoonah or Sitka district. 96. 84096 Diameter 19.0 cm, depth unknown Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Used by women to store work and small articles. (Only the cover remains in Field Museum's collection.) Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom and center of the top are in khark-ghee- su 't weave; the remainder of the basket is in Type— (Not given in Emmons's notes but prob- ably of the tu-dar huck type.) Function— Probably used as a woman's work- basket. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom and a portion of the cover are in khark-ghee-su't weave and the remainder is in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides are false embroi- dered with grass in the hootz kus-see'-tee de- sign. The cover, also false embroidered, is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design; the raised rattle portion is in ken ta'r-yee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe, made about 1886. 98. 84098 Diameter 14.0 cm, depth 9.5 cm Type— (Unidentified but probably of the tu-dar huck type.) Function — Covered woman's workbasket for small articles; the cover is missing. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The character and arrangement of the ornamentation suggest this is an old basket. (Finished with border I, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The central band is false em- broidered in grass in the ars suck har ha '-yar- ku design, with lines containing the sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee design above and below. (The false embroidery designs define negative areas of plain spruce root which are equally important in the design.) Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but originally from Kayak Island or Yak- utat Bay. 22 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 99. 84099 Diameter 8.0 cm, depth 14.5 cm Typ-e — Khuk-kliuk-wnk (Called qwutle qwut in Emmons, 1903.) Function— Used as a woman's workbasket (but Emmons states that its shape is remarkable). It is of a type that would have been covered, but the cover is missing. Construction— Made of plain and dyed spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twin- ing). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903 p. 245.) Ornamentation -The sides are false embroi- dered with grass. The two bands are in the hootz kus-see'-lee design. Provenience- Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe, where it had been preserved by a Russian family for many years. (Illustrated in Emmons. 1903, pi. XIV, no. 1.) 100. 84100 Diameter 21.0 cm, depth 16.5 cm Type— Kishst Function— Not of frequent use, but more orna- mental in character. Made to be sold. Construction— Openwork basket of spruce root. (Finished with border 1 . Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Bands of closework carry the false embroidery design klaok shar yar kee'- kee. Provenience- From Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe; made about 1890. (According to Hodge, 1907, Gaud-ah-kan is the same as Gaudekan, the principal Hoonah town which is generally called Hoonah. Illustrated in Emmons, 1903 pi. XV, no. 1.) 101. 84101 Diameter 20.0 cm, depth 16.5 cm Type— Kishst Function — Such baskets were used by women for small articles of clothing but were made more for sale than use. Construction — Twined of spruce root in cross warp twining, except in the wake of ornamental bands where plain twining (two-strand twining) occurs. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903 p. 245.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery bands in plain and dyed grass alternate with the open- work. The designs are klaok shar yar kee'-kee and tia-thlu'. Provenience— Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe; made about 1 890. 102. 84102 Diameter and depth uncertain Type— Athle yet Function— A saltwater drinking cup used as an individual's drinking basket. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) and fitted with a single handle of two-stranded, twisted spruce root. The upper edge (according to Emmons) is finished in an outside plaiting with the warp ends trimmed off flush. (Probably border 3, Em- mons, 1903, p. 246.) Ornamentation— (Emmons states that this is a remarkably fine piece of grass work.) Two broad false embroidery bands of grass and fern stem are in the shon ghe-kulth kah ka 'tch-ul-tee and kon-naste designs. The narrow middle band is in klake da kheet-see'-tee. Below the bands is another type of this design, known as shon ghe- kulth kah ka 'tch-ul-tee. The basket is decorated about the upper rim with the tail feathers of a red-shafted flicker. PROVENiENCE-Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe. (Exchanged with Museo Nacional de Antropologia, Mexico City, in 1 95 1 . No pho- tograph is available. Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XII, no. 5.) 103. 84103 Diameter 8.5 cm, depth 1 1.8 cm TYPE-Athle yet Function— Saltwater drinking cup used by an in- dividual. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The upper edge is finished after the ordinary manner (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). It is fitted with a single handle of two-stranded spruce root. Ornamentation— False embroidery in natural grass. The three bands are in a favorite com- bination of designs so often found on older work; the upper band is in the hootz kus-see'-tee and thiuhl k-yar-nee designs, the middle is in sarh- shar tootsee and ut kheet-see'-tee, and the broad lower band is in shuh-tuck ou-hu '. kohk-thia '- ku, and ku klate-ar ku-ou. Provenience -Tlingit. From Klart Heenee, Bart- lett Bay, Icy Strait; the Hoonah tribe. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 23 104. 84104 Diameter 24.0 cm. depth 24.5 cm (original dimensions) Type— Tooke Function— Cradle. In use, the basket just forms the body and back of the cradle; the front would have been of tanned skin or, more recently, of cotton or cloth. The cradle would have been filled with a soft tree moss. In more primitive days the body of the cradle would have been of cedar bark. Construction — Made of spruce root. Originally an ordinary cylindrical berry basket of the type carried on the back, it has been cut in half sewn together, and strengthened with a bent spruce twig. It is in the middle weave, except in the wake of the ornamental bands. (The original basket was finished with border 11, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery bands, in grass and fern stem, show the sarh-shar tootsee design, which has been doubled and in- verted. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 105. 85105 Diameter 17.0 cm, depth 14.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended from the neck to hold freshly picked berries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in close weave (two-strand twining) and middle weave. (The body is in two-strand twin- ing.) The border edge is finished by cutting off the warp strands flush with the weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— The several bands of false em- broidery in grass are in the thluhl k-yar-nee de- sign and, at the border, shuck kuhk. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 106. 84106 Diameter 14.5 cm, depth 13.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Flinction— Suspended from the neck to hold freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in the khark-ghee-su 't weave, while the walls are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The top is finished in a plaited weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation — Ornamented with plain and dyed spruce root in the design known as shuck kuhk. Provenience— Thngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 107. 84107 Diameter 1 1.5 cm. depth 12.5 cm Type— Chetle tar-ka 'te Function — Used to hold horn spoons, it is hung from a peg in the wall by a two-strand twisted spruce root handle. Construction— Made of spruce root. It is in al- ternate bands of plain (two-strand) and cross warp twining. (Finished with border 7, Em- mons. 1903. p. 247.) Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. X, no. 1.) Ornamentation — Unomamented. 108. 84108 Diameter 1 1.0 cm, depth 12.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function — Suspended from the neck to hold ber- ries. Construction — Made of spruce root. Of char- acteristic Chilkat work, it is woven of very fine root in khark-ghee-su 't weave, except about the ornamental band. At the mouth, the close weave (two-strand twining) is interspersed with the hiktch hee-ha'r-see weave to produce a geo- metric pattern. The upper edge is finished in four-strand weft plaiting (Emmons, 1 903. p. 248, border 12). There are two loop handles of deer- skin. Ornamentation— Ornamentation in plain root. From its lack of colored ornamentation it is called son- nay. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. 109. 84109 Diameter 10.5 cm, depth 10.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function, Construction, and Ornamenta- tion— Similar in all respects to basket 108. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. 24 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 110.84110 Diameter 8.8 cm, depth 9.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function, Construction, and Ornamenta- tion— Similar in all respects to basket 108. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. 111. 84111 Diameter 10.8 cm, depth 1 1.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 7 weave and the walls are in close weave (two-strand twining). The upper edge is finished in plaiting (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248. border 12). Ornamentation — A wide band of false embroi- dery in grass shows the ars suck har ha '-yar-ku design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe, but of Hoonah make; procured in trade. 112.84112 Diameter 9.0 cm, depth 9.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— A child's berry basket, suspended from the neck to hold freshly picked berries. A child might eat berries from such a basket. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave and the sides are in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The upper edge is finished in plaiting (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— False embroidery in grass. Two outer bands are in the khu won kus say-ya '-yee design. The wide middle band is in tla-thlu ' and klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, the Huts- nuwu tribe. 113.84113 Diameter 7.8 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Kuhk ku'hk-ee Function — A little basket used by children for carrying and eating freshly picked berries. Construction— Made in close weave (two-strand twining) of plain and dyed spruce root. The warp ends at the upper edge are cut off flush (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— The false embroidery band is in the khu won kus say-ya '-yee design in natural grass, placed over small bands of black- and red- dyed weft material. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 114. 84114 Diameter 9.5 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Kuhk ku'hk-ee Function— A little basket used by children for carrying and eating freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The sides are in close weave (two-strand twining), the bot- tom in middle weave. The upper edge is trimmed off flush (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 2). Ornamentation— The false embroidery band in grass and fern stem is in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r- kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 115.84115 Diameter 55.0 cm, height 9.0 cm Type— (No Tlingit name given.) Function— Hat. Construction — Made of spruce root in plain (two- strand) twining. (Finished with border 1, Em- mons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— A rare example ornamented with circles of false embroidery in natural grass. The lines of grass which form circles to conform to the shape of the field are an example of dis- tortion of the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe; made about 1880. 116.84116 Diameter and depth unknown Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— A plaquelike basket for berry screen- ing, though these more ornamental small bas- kets were often used as feast dishes to serve berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished in four-strand weft plait (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— The inner circle of false em- broidery is in the kah-ghu'n kar-ha'r-ku and klaok shar yar kee'-kee designs. The second and outer circles are in the thluhl k-yar-nee design WEBER; NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 25 and the circle next to the outer circle is in klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Klukwan. the Chilkat tribe, but believed to have been pro- cured in trade from the Hoonah tribe of Cross Sound. (Note— The basket cataloged under this number is not the one described. The one cataloged is a hemispherical bowl in Chilkat style with khark- ghee-su '! weave, a band of plain twining around the rim. and border 12 [Emmons. 1903, p. 248]. No false embroidery ornamentation exists. Di- ameter 22.0 cm. depth 9.0 cm.) 117.84117 Diameter 32.0 cm. depth 4.5 cm 119. 84119 Diameter 52.0 cm. depth 14.0 cm Type— Tarlth Function— A large plaquelike basket used as a woman's workbasket for basketweaving. Construction— Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 't weave and plain (two-strand) twining. The edge is finished by turning down the warp ends on the outside (Emmons. 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation — Circles of close weave with plain and dyed weft show the yulth thlu-thlee'te nu'-ku and shuck kuhk designs. Provenience— Tlingit. From Ar-sou-kee, Fresh- water Bay. Chichagof Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons. 1903. pi. XIV, no. 3.) T\?E— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— A plaquelike basket used to screen berries. More highly ornamented baskets of this character were used as eating dishes at feasts. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1. Emmons. 1903. p. 245.) Ornamentation — The inner and outer ornamen- tal circles of false embroidery in grass are in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. This false em- broidery forms a complementary figure (or neg- ative design) in plain spruce root known as sig- ga-71ee' tee'-shee. The middle ornamental band is in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons. 1903. pi. XIV, no. 4.) 120. 84120 Diameter 43.5 cm, depth 12.0 cm Type— Tarlth Function— A plaquelike basket used as a wom- an's workbasket. Construction — Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 't weave. The edge is finished by turning over the warp ends and securing them with a two-ply twining over the edges (Emmons, 1903, p. 247. border 9). Ornamentation— Unomamented. Provenience— Eyak. Eyak Teliae from Eyak Lake, Prince William Sound. 121.84121 Diameter 5.0 cm. depth 4.0 cm 118.84118 Diameter 24.0 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— A small plaquelike basket used for eating and for screening berries. Construction — Made of finely woven spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining), ornamented and strengthened (on the interior) by concentric circles of three-strand weft weave in the long twist (embroidered twist). The edge is finished in four-strand weft plait (Emmons. 1903, p. 248, border 12). It is fitted with a single loop handle of hide. Ornamentation— The outer ornamental band is in close weave interspersed with the skip stitch known as htktch hee-ha'r-see. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan. the Chil- kat tribe. Type— Experimental basket. Function — A small rude basket, the work of a little girl learning to weave. Such small baskets are used as playthings by the children and as vessels from which to eat berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in plain (two- strand) twining. The warp ends are cut off flush at the upper edge (Emmons. 1903. p. 245. bor- der 1). Ornamentation — Unomamented. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo. 122. 84122 Diameter 16.0 cm. depth 16.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended around the neck to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- 26 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY torn is in open weave; the walls are in close weave (two-strand twining). The border edge is finished in two-ply plaiting over the weft (Em- mons, 1903, p. 246, border 4). Ornamentation— The two outer bands are or- namented in false embroidery in grass and fern stem in the sarh-shar tootsee design. The central design is ut kheet-see'-tee. Above and below the ornamental band is the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Klukwan, on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe, but probably woven by a Hoonah woman or one who had learned the ornamental false embroidery from the coastal people. 123. 84123 Diameter 14.8 cm, depth 2.8 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function — Shallow, basinlike basket. These smaller baskets are used for eating berries and not as screens. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Deshu, the Chilkoot branch of the Chilkat tribe. 124.84124 Diameter 17.5 cm, depth 5.0 cm Type— Kul-luts-ar yet Function— Used more as an eating dish for ber- ries. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The inner band is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design and the outer band is in thluhl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. 125. 84125 Diameter 9.8 cm, depth 10.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining); the upper edge is finished in the usual way. (Analysis shows this basket is finished with border 1 2, Emmons, 1 903, p. 248.) Ornamentation— The two bands of false em- broidery in grass show the sarh-shar tootsee de- sign. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Kake tribe of Kupreanof Island. 126. 84126 Diameter 8.0 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type- Kuhk ku 'hk-ee Function— Carried around the neck to hold ber- ries. Such baskets are used by little girls both to eat and to receive freshly picked berries. This particular basket was worked by the mother for her 8-month-old baby as its personal property and placed by its side. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave and the walls are in close weave (two-strand twining). The top is fin- ished in plaiting (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— The false embroidery in grass on this basket is unique and elaborate, after the pattern of larger and finer old berry or feast bas- kets. The band is in the tla-thlu' design, en- closing the figure klaok shar yar kee'-kee. The klaok shar yar kee'-kee design also appears above and below the ornamental band in ver- tical arrangements. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 6.) 127. 84127 Diameter 7.5 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Kuhk ku' hk-ee Function— Children would use such a basket to hold freshly picked berries. It might also be used by children as a container from which to eat berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave; the sides are in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished after the usual manner (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). The basket is fitted with a new handle of twisted root. Ornamentation— The false embroidery band in grass is in the kohk-thla'-ku design. Below, a WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 27 variant of the shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-id-tee design appears. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 128. 84128 Diameter 7.0 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type— Kufik ku'hk-ee Function— Small basket such as children would use to pick and eat berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in middle weave, except in the wake of the ornamental band, which is in close weave (two-strand twin- ing). (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903. p. 247.) Ornamentation — The false embroidery design in grass is known as kha '-tii. Provenience— Tlingit. From KilHsnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 129. 84129 Diameter 6.0 cm, depth 7.2 cm T\pe— (Not recorded by Emmons, but probably kuhk ku'hk-ee.) Function— Small basket from which a child would pick and eat berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in the spe- " cial style of the Chilkat, close weave (two-strand twining) combined with skip stitch. The top is finished in plaiting (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248, bor- der 12). Ornamentation— The pattern known as hiktch hee-ha 'r-see is produced by skipping over a warp element at intervals to form the geometric lines. No false embroidery is used. Provenience- Tlingit. From KJukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. 130. 84130 Diameter 8.5 cm, depth 9.2 cm Type— (Not recorded.) Function— A very peculiarly shaped covered bas- ket. (A woman assured Emmons that it had been used to hold native tobacco.) Construction— Made from spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining) throughout. Both the top edge of the basket and the edge of the cover are finished in the usual manner (Emmons, 1 903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The sides are ornamented and strengthened by a spiral consisting of a third strand of weft twisted around the outer regular weft strand. (This method is like false embroi- dery, but the third element is a piece of split root rather than grass.) Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. X, no. 2.) 131.84131 Diameter 5.0 cm. depth 3.0 cm Type— Afus-shii'r tar-ka'te Function — A woman's snuffbox or chewing bag for holding native tobacco. Carried by women in little bags of skin suspended around the neck. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). This is a small, shallow double basket with the two parts fitting neatly one on the other. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— False embroidery in grass. The case proper is in the thluhl k-yar-nee design and the cover is in klake-ar-ton. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Hoonah tribe, Gaud-ah-kan village (now called Hoonah). (Il- lustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 5.) 132. 84132 Diameter 6.0 cm, depth 3.0 cm Type— Mus-shu' I tar-ka'te Function— Woman's snuff or tobacco box or chewing bag for holding native tobacco. Carried by women in a small skin bag suspended about the neck. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). It consists of a double basket, one part fitting on the other. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is in the or- namental spruce root design khartse kut-r-ka- dee. The cover is ornamented throughout, with false embroidery in grass and the stem of the maidenhair fern, in a variant of shuck kuhk de- sign (strawberry weave). Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 133. 84133 Diameter 5.0 cm, depth 2.5 cm Type— Child's experimental basket. Function— The first work of a little girl who was learning to weave. Construction— Made of spruce root in twining 28 FIELDIANA; ANTHROPOLOGY and plaiting. (Finished with border 1, Emmons. 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Lacks ornamentation. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka. 134. 84134 Diameter 3.2 cm, depth 3.0 cm Type— Child's experimental basket. Function— The first work of a little girl learning to weave in root. Used as a plaything. Construction— Made in ordinar>' plain weave (two-strand twining) and shuck kuhk weave. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Three rows of shuck kuhk weave in spruce root ornament the basket. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka. 135. 84135 Height 7.0 cm, width 22.0 cm Type— Ornamental band. Function— Made to be attached to a head piece. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinar>' close weave (two-strand twining). The weaving has been finished except at the borders. Ornamentation— The whole outer surface is covered with false embroidery in natural and colored grass in the klake da kheet-see'-tee de- sign. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe, but more probably of Hoonah work- manship. 136. 84136 Length 15.8 cm, width 12.5 cm Type— Tarlth Function— An old type of oval mat used as a dish or plate for serving and eating food. Construction — Made of spruce root in the or- dinary close (two-strand twining) and shuck kuhk weaves. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The ornamental bands of false embroidery in grass show the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, the Huts- nuwu tribe of Admiralty Island. Function— Circular mat used to serve and eat food. Construction — Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — With two false embroidery bands in a distorted version of the design rhluhl k- yar- nee. Provenience— Thngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 138. 84138 Diameter 16.0 cm Type— Khuke too-gu Function— Circular mat used to serve and eat food. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The outer false embroidery band of grass and fern stem is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience — Tlingit. Made at Sitka, the Sitka tribe, c. 1890. 139. 84139 Diameter 19.0 cm Type— Khuke too-gu Function— Circular mat used to eat food. Construction— Made of spruce root in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Ornamented in concentric cir- cles of twined colored root and false embroidery in natural grass with the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 140. 84140 Diameter 20.8 cm Type— Khuke too-gu Function— Circular mat used to eat food. Construction— Made of spruce root in both middle and close weaves. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands are in the klaok shar yar kee '-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 137. 84137 Type— Khuke too-gu Diameter 15.5 cm 141. 84141 Type— Khuke too-gu Diameter 22.2 cm WEBER; NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 29 Function — Ornamental circular mat. Construction— Made of spruce root in the open- work crossing stitch (cross warp twining) and close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands are in the thluhl k-yar-nee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 142. 84142 Diameter 41.0 cm, depth 16.0 cm Type— ATAart sarh Function — Woman's hat. Such hats were worn by both men and women, or rather had been worn in more primitive days. They were used particularly as weather hats while traveling in a canoe, for protection in bright as well as stormy weather. (In Emmons's day, 1903, they were seldom met with except on festive occasions.) Construction— Made of spruce root. The top is woven in three-strand twist for strength; the rim is in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) interspersed with the hiktch hee-ha 'r-see weave, a variety of skip stitch. The border edge is strengthened by four-strand plaiting under the outside weft strand, and the warp ends are trimmed off flush (Emmons, 1903, p. 246, bor- der 6). The head band inside is wholly in the hiktch hee-ha 'r-see weave. Ornamentation— Ornamentally painted in red and black to represent the raven. Ornamental painting was generally of the wearer's crest. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 144. 84144 Diameter 5.2 cm, depth 10.2 cm Type— Ut tn-qwit 'n-see lar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used to carry shot. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The basket proper is ornamen- tally covered with false embroidery throughout in plain and colored grass. The upper, lower, and middle bands are in the shon ghe-kulth kah ka 'tch-id-tee design; the two other bands are in ut kheet-see' -tee. The false embroidery on the cover is in a variation of the salmonberry design known as kut-kha'r-nee. Provenience— Thngit. From Klart Heenee, Bart- lett Bay, the Hoonah tribe. 145. 84145 Diameter 4.8 cm, depth 1 1.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwii' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used to carry shot. Construction — Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is orna- mented with false embroidery in grass in the ta'r-wark kus-see'-tee design. The cover is or- namented with false embroidery bands of grass in the klake-ar-ton design alternating with the shuck kuhk weave. Provenience— Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe. 143. 84143 Diameter 10.0 cm, depth 10.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket worn around the neck to re- ceive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border edge is finished by turning the warp ends under and twining them down (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— The two outer bands of false embroidery in grass are in the thluhl k-yar-nee and kah-ghu'n kar-ha 'r-ku designs; the middle band is in tla-thlu ' and klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Thngit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 146. 84146 Diameter 5.5 cm, depth 12.0 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function — Double basket used to carry shot. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The basket proper shows the false embroidery design ars suck har ha '-yar- ku. The cover is in alternate bands of colored root known as klake-ar-ton. Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay, Cross Sound, the Hoonah tribe. (Illustrated in Em- mons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 1.) 30 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 147. 84147 Diameter 2.0 cm, depth 5.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Small double basket used as a shot bag. CoNSTUCTiON — Made of spruce root. The cover is strengthened in spirals of fine root false-em- broidered twist through the outer weft strand. Both basket and cover are in close (two-strand) twining. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is orna- mented with grass and fern stem false embroi- dery in the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 148. 84148 Diameter 7.5 cm. depth 9.5 cm JY?E—Athle yet Function— Drinking cup used to drink salt water before hunting, gambling, trading, or when fast- ing. Construction— Made of spruce root. Three bands of close weave (two-strand twining) with two bands of middle, or khark-ghee-su't, weave. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons. 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — False embroidered with grass and fern stems in the design known as kitch hon- ar-ghart. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Ketchikan, the Sounah tribe. Cape Fox people. As these people do not weave in spruce root and colored grass, the basket was probably procured farther north or made by a northern woman who had inter- married. (The Sounah are called the Saya or Sanykoan in other sources.) Provenience— Tlingit. Hoonah tribe. From Dundas Bay, the 150. 84150 Diameter 18.5 cm, depth 14.2 cm Type— (Not identified by name.) Function— Used as a workbasket and for storage of household articles, such as spoons, when trav- eling. Construction— Made from the bark of the red cedar, after the manner of weave in spruce root of the more northern Tlingit. It is in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining) and openwork. The edge is finished regularly by turning the warp ends under (on the outside). (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation — Ornamented with bands of dyed cedar weft. Provenience— Tlingit. From Fort Wrangell, the Stikine tribe. 151.84151 Diameter 17.0 cm, depth 17.8 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function— Basket used to pick berries and to car- ry and store small articles. Construction— Made from the bark of the red cedar. It is in checkered weave (plaiting) and fitted with a plaited handle of cedar bark. The edge is finished by turning in the warp ends. Ornamentation— Ornamented (with a plaid de- sign) in plain and dyed cedar bark. Provenience— Tlingit. From Fort Wrangell, the Stikine tribe. 149. 84149 Diameter 3.5 cm. depth 10.0 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root with both basket and cover in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The cover is unomamented while the basket proper is false embroidered with grass and fern stem in the short ghe-kulth kah ka 'tch-ul-tee design. 152. 84152 Diameter 17.0 cm, depth 18.5 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function— Basket used for berry picking and for carrying small articles. Construction — Made from the bark of red cedar in checkered weave (plaiting) and fitted with a plaited handle of cedar bark. The edge is finished by turning in the warp. Ornamentation— Ornamented (with a plaid de- sign) in plain and dyed cedar bark. Provenience— Tlingit. From Fort Wrangell, the Stikine tribe. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 31 153. 84153 Diameter 16.0 cm, depth 15.2 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function— A basket used by women for picking berries and as a workbasket. Construction— Twined of spruce root. Ornamentation — Ornamented with red bands and skip stitch. The use of plain and colored bands is peculiar to the Haida. Provenience — Haida. Manufactured in the southern portion of Prince of Wales Island. 154. 84154 Diameter and depth unknown Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket or shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Border not identified.) Ornamentation— The basket proper shows the false embroidery design shon ghe-kidth kah ka'tch-ul-tee. The cover has colored bands of grass and plain root in the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe. (Note— No basket with this number could be found in Field Museum's collection.) and fern stem that is said to be sha 'r-dar kuhk. Below and above this are lines of the design sarh-shar tootsee. Provenience— From Lei tooskin, Admiralty Is- land, the property of Kah-ock-tee, the chief of the Am-khar-hit-ton family of the Hutsnuwu tribe (Lei tooskin is probably Emmons's spelling for Neltushkin village. Am-khar-hit-ton is the same as Ankakehittan [Hodge, 1907, p. 58]). 157. 84157 Diameter 2.8 cm, depth 7.8 cm Type — Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction — Both parts are made in a close weave (two-strand twining) of spruce root. (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The basket proper is decorated with false embroidery in grass with the design sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee. The cover is wholly dec- orated with false embroidery in grass with the design thiuhl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 155. 84155 Diameter and depth unknown Type— (7? tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka' te Function — Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. The cover is in middle, or khark-ghee-su 't, weave; the bas- ket is in plain weave (two-strand twining). (The border has not been identified.) Ornamentation— The basket is ornamented in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Shyuke, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Note— This basket could not be found in Field Museum's collec- tion.) 158. 84158 Diameter 3.2 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The inner part of the basket is ornamented with false embroidery in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. The cover is orna- mented in colored bands of dyed weft material. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 156. 84156 Diameter 2.8 cm, depth 8.0 cm 159. 84159 Diameter 13.0 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). (Finished with border I, Em- mons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is very re- markable, with a false embroidery design in grass Type— Tarlth Function— Small mat. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (The border is not recorded.) Ornamentation— The ornamentation in false embroidery is in the design thhihl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 32 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY (Note— This basket is now in the collections of the Logan Museum, Beloit College, Wisconsin.) was sold to the University College, Wales, in 1925.) 160. 84160 Diameter 31.0 cm 163. 84163 Dimensions not recorded Type— Tchu-qwelth Function— Clothes bag or a packing bag. Construction — Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su't weave, except in the wake of the or- namentation. (Finished with border 1, Em- mons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The two broader outer false embroidery bands are in the kon-naste design. In between is the won 'sh-ka-deekha '-tit design, the double kha'-tu. The middle band is in the ta 'r-wark kus-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, where it was made in 1891. (Note— Only the bottom of this basket remains in Field Museum's collection.) Type— Kishst Function— Made as a fancy basket for trade pur- poses. Construction— Openwork basket of spruce root. Bands of openwork are arranged between bands of close weave (two-strand twining) for strength. (The border is not recorded.) Ornamentation — The closely woven bands are ornamented with false embroidery in grass. The upper and lower ones are in the klake da kheet- see'-teedt%i^. The middle band is in kon-naste and shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-id-tee. Provenience— Thngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Exchanged with the Museo Nacional de Antro- pologia, Mexico City, in 1951.) 161. 84161 Diameter 29.0 cm, depth 27.0 cm ^^^ 84164 Dimensions not recorded Type— Tchu-qwelth Function— A packing bag or trunk. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave, the sides in ordinary close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The two larger false embroi- dery bands are in the kon-naste design and, in plain grass, the wou'sh-ka-dee kha'-tu design. Between the two larger designs is the tit kheet- see' -tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Collected in Sitka, where it was made in 1886. 162. 84162 Dimensions not recorded TYPE—Kishst Function— A fancy basket made for trade with the white man. Construction — Openwork basket of spruce root. The bottom is in middle weave. Bands of open- work are between bands of close weave (two- strand twining). Ornamentation— The upper and lower bands of false embroidery are in the thlukh qwar-ye'-tee design enclosing klaok shar yar kee'-kee. The middle band is in khu wou kus say-ya '-yee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka. (This basket Type— Tchu-qwehh Function — Basket used as a bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. (The meth- od of construction is not recorded.) Ornamentation— The upper and middle bands of false embroidery are in the sig-ga-dee' tee'- shee. kin-da' r-kar, and kohk-thla'-kii designs. The two other bands are in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Exchanged with the Brooklyn Institute in 1 906.) 165. 84165 Diameter 34.5 cm, depth 22.5 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function— Used to carry berries and roots. Construction— Finely twined basket of grass. Ornamentation — Ornamented with colored worsted. Provenience— Aleut. From Attn Island, the Aleu- tian Islands. 166. 84166 Diameter 15.2 cm T\PE—Khuke too-gu Function— Mat of the kind used as a plate from which to eat. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 33 Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented in false embroi- dered circles of grass and the stems of maiden- hair fern. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 167. 84167 Diameter 3.2 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as shot bag. Construction — Made of spruce root. Both parts are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is orna- mented with false embroidery in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. The cover is in plain root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay, Cross Sound, the Hoonah tribe. 168. 84168 Diameter 3.2 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Consists of a small basket and cover, the latter sliding on a string attached to the bas- ket. This is a peculiar specimen, from its shape. It was used as a shot pouch, and the cover func- tioned as a charger. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twming). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Unomamented except on the rim, where a skip stitch design occurs. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 169. 84169 Diameter 13.0 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function— Small basket used as a workbasket by a woman. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave; the sides are in close weave. (Finished with border 1 , Emmons, 1 903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The middle band is in a false embroidery design, thiuhl k-yar-riee. Above and below the central band is the yulth thlu-thlee'te nu'-ku design. Both designs are in plain and colored spruce root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 170. 84170 Diameter 3.5 cm, depth 3.8 cm Type— Tuck tar-ka 'te Function— Small double basket carried around the neck of a woman. Used as a tobacco box. Construction — Made of spruce root. The basket proper is in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Alternating colored weft strands of the basket proper produce the orna- mental weave known as shuck kuhk. The cover is ornamented in parallel circles of false em- broidery in grass and fern stem in the klake-ar- ton design. Provenience— From Angoon, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Appears to be the basket illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 4. If this is the same basket, Emmons adds that it came from the chief of the Dashiton family. He also adds that it was used to carry bird's down; however, because of the basket's small size, I prefer the tobacco box description.) 171. 84171 Diameter 32.0 cm. depth 27.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Basket carried on top of the back to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 12, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) Ornamentation — The two broad false embroi- dery bands in grass are in the kishst design, en- closing klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Between these and in the same band is a variant of the double cross figure. Below the ornamented bands on either side is a unique pattern of parallelograms to which no meaning has been attached. (Em- mons omits any mention of the thin ut kheet- see'-tee design that separates the two main de- sign bands.) Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka. 172. 84172 Diameter 10.0 cm, depth 7.0 cm Type— (No native name given.) 34 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Function— A basket which represents a little girl's first attempt at weaving. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave. The border edge is finished by cutting off the warp ends flush (border 1 , Emmons. 1 903. p. 245). Ornamentation— False embroidered in grass with the khu won kns say-ya'-yee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Haines, Deshu, the Chilkoot branch of the Chilkat tribe. are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket is ornamented with false embroidery in the sha' r-dar yar-a' r-kee de- sign. The cover is ornamented in lines of grass known as the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 2.) 176. 84176 Diameter 18.5 cm, depth 17.5 cm 173. 84173 Diameter 2.5 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 're Function— Double basket. Construction — Made of spruce root. Both parts are in close weave (two-strand tv»dning). The tremble in the sides and the small cover which fits on the top are peculiar to this piece. (The cover of plain root is missing from the collec- tion. Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket proper is false em- broidered with grass and fern stem in the ars suck har ha '-yar-ku design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. (Illustrated, with a top, in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIII, no. 3.) 174. 84174 Diameter 3.0 cm, depth 8.5 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both parts are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery orna- mentation of the basket proper is in the sha 'r- dar yar-a 'r-kee design. The cover is ornament- ed in parallel lines of grass and root called the klake-ar-ton design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Angoon, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 175. 84175 Diameter 2.5 cm, depth 6.2 cm Type— t/r tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka' te Function — Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both parts Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried around the neck to re- ceive freshly picked berries. Construction— The bottom is in middle weave, and the sides are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 12, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) Ornamentation— The sides are ornamented with false embroidery bands in the tla-thlu' design. Provenience— Tlingit. (Location of collection not recorded.) 177. 84177 Diameter 10.5 cm, depth 1 1.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried around the neck to hold freshly picked berries. Used by a child. Construction— The bottom is in middle weave; the sides are in close weave (two-strand twin- ing). A very fine piece of weaving. The border is finished in four-strand flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— Unomamen ted. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the prin- cipal village of the Chilkat tribe on the Chilkat River. 178. 84178 Diameter 15.2 cm, depth 20.0 cm Type— Thleetle Function— A covered basket used as a workbas- ket and for small articles. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The bands of false embroidery in grass and fern stem are in the ut kheet-see'- tee design. The edge of the cover is in the klaok WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 35 shar yar kee'-kee design, while the top is in the thluhl k-yar-nee design. Provenience— Thngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 179. 84179 Diameter 20.0 cm, depth 1 7.2 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function — Basket carried around the neck to hold freshly picked berries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in middle weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— False embroidery in grass and fern stems covers almost the entire basket. The sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design is superimposed on a design zone defined by bands of differently colored split spruce root. Provenience— Tlingit. (Location of collection is not recorded.) 180. 84180 Diameter 22.5 cm, depth 6.0 cm Type— Tarlth Function— Plaquelike basket used as a child's workbasket for basket making. Construction — Made of spruce root in the twined weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 10, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery bands are in the thluhl k-yar-nee design, with the shuck kuhk weave about the edge. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 181.84181 Diameter 9.8 cm, depth 6.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function — Small covered basket with a rattle in the cover. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, the top and sides in close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons. 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The sides are ornamented in grass with the false embroidery designs sig-ga- dee' tee'-shee, kishst, and klaok shar yar kee'- kee, while the top is wholly in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. The provenience is not certain but the basket is believed to have come from Sitka. 182. 84182 Diameter 14.5 cm, depth 12.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried around the neck to hold berries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, the sides in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 4, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery band is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design, so ar- ranged in color to form the figure kut-kha 'r- nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe. 183. 84183 Diameter 17.0 cm, depth 13.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried about the neck to re- ceive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two wide false embroidery bands in grass are in the khu wou kus say-ya '- V'ce design. The design field is defined by narrow bands of dyed weft material. Provenience— Thngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 184. 84184 Diameter 17.5 cm. depth 16.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried about the neck to re- ceive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). This basket is fitted with two loop handles of hide. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The two wide bands of false embroidery in grass are in the sig-ga-dee' tee'- shee design, while the middle band is in ut kheet- see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Yakutat, the Thlae- has-yuk tribe. (This is possibly the Hlahayik tribe.) 185. 84185 Type— Tu-dar huck Diameter 16.0 cm 36 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Function— Small covered workbasket of the type with a rattle in the lid. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 7 weave; the walls and cover are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with grass and fern stem. False embroidery on the sides is in a new pattern copied from oilcloth seen in the store window. The cover is in the khu wou kus say-ya'-yee design, with gwiilth ha cou'tch-ee on the rattle compartment in the middle. (Only the cover to this basket remains in Field Mu- seum's collection.) Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay, the Hoonah tribe. Function— Plaquelike basket used to screen ber- ries. Construction — Made of spruce root in the reg- ular weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two false embroidered or- namental bands in grass are in the sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee design. Around the border is a narrow ornamental band in the kah-ghu ' n kar-ha 'r-ku design. Provenience— From Klukwan, the Chilkat tribe, but believed to have been procured from Yak- utat in early days. 189. 84189 Diameter 26.0 cm. depth 24.0 cm 186. 84186 Length 21.5 cm, depth 11.8 cm Type— Kuhk kuhk wuk Function— Oval workbasket. Construction — Two-stranded twined weave (two-strand twining) in plain and dyed spruce root. (Finished by folding in the top few rows of twining in a distinctive way to form an in- terior lip.) Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands in grass are in the thluhl k-yar-nee and kah-ghu' n kar-ha' r-ku designs. The middle, mottled band in root is in the alternate colored root weaves known as shuck kuhk and yuhh thhi-thlee'te mt'-ku. Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay. the Hoonah tribe. 187. 84187 Diameter 2.8 cm, depth 8.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu' n-see lar-ka 'le Function— Double basket used as a shot bag. Construction — Made of spruce root. Both parts are in close weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1. Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The basket is false embroi- dered in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. The cover is plain. Provenience— Tlingit. No place of collection is mentioned. Type— Kah-nhk ka'r-r Function— Basket carried on top of the back when picking berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining) and fitted with hide handles. (Finished in the regular way with Em- mons's border 7 [1903, p. 247].) Ornamentation— The two broader false em- broidery bands of grass are in the thluhl k-yar- nee design and the middle band is in ut kheet- see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but brought from Kayak Island or Yak- utat Bay. 190. 84190 Diameter 40.0 cm, depth 30.0 cm Type— Kluckt tar-tu'n Function— Basket used in a central place to re- ceive roots and berries from several people. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The bottom is rein- forced in a false embroidery stitch of root twist- ed about the outer warp strand. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in plain grass. The whole surface of the wall is ornamented in three bands of the sha 'r- dar yar-a 'r-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but brought from Kayak Island. 188. 84188 Diameter 23.0 cm, depth 7.0 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet 191. 84191 Diameter 29.0 cm, depth 28.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 37 Function— Basket carried on top of the back to hold freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation — The two false embroidered bands are in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at St. Paul, Kodiak Island, but of Yakutat workmanship. 192. 84192 Diameter and depth not known da workmanship; he was sure that they were not Tlingit. Finished with border 7. Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two broader false em- broidery bands in grass are in the sarh-shar ?oo;see design; the middle band is ut kheet-see'- tee. Below the ornamental bands on two sides is a design known as ars suck har ha '-yar-ku. Provenience— Tlingit. Found on Queen Char- lotte Island, but of Tlingit origin and workman- ship. Type— Athle yet Function— Saltwater drinking cup; an individual drinking basket. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining), fitted with a single handle of twisted spruce root. The warp ends are cut off flush with the weave at the edge (Em- mons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation — The two broader bands of or- namentation are in the giilh-lu ' h-ku design. The middle band is kitch hon-ar-ghart; below this band is shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-ul-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Wrangell, the Stikine tribe, but of more northern origin and workmanship. (The basket described by Em- mons's notes could not be found in Field Mu- seum's collection. The description does not match the specimen cataloged as 84 1 92, it being a berry basket of the type that was carried on the back. The basket cataloged as 84192 has a diameter of 2 1 .0 cm and a depth of 2 1 .8 cm. It is in khark-ghee-sii't and close weaves and is ornamented with false embroidery in grass with the kheet-see' -tee and sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-keede- signs. The basket shown in the photograph is the one cataloged as 84192.) 193. 84193 Diameter 28.0 cm, depth 26.0 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Basket carried on the back to hold freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The handles are very peculiar, in their being in three parts of twisted spruce root and two parts of twine twisted to- gether and also in their positioning far down on the walls of the basket. (Emmons believed that the handles and their arrangement were of Hai- 194. 84194 Diameter 14.5 cm, depth 22.5 cm Type— Chetle tar-ka 're Function— Basket used to hold horn spoons. Hung from a hook or peg on the house wall. Construction— Made of spruce root in cross warp twining except in the wake of the ornamenta- tion, which is in plain (two-strand) twining. (Finished with border 12, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) Fitted with a handle of twisted spruce root cord. Ornamentation — This is a very ornamental specimen. The closely woven bands of false em- broidery in grass are in the hoot: kus-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XI, no. 5.) 195. 84195 Diameter 31.5 cm, depth 28.0 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function — Basket carried on top of the back to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The weave is that of the Chilkats, the khark-ghee-su't, ex- cept in the wake of the ornamentation, where it is in close weave (two-strand twining). The bor- der finish is in four-ply sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). It is fitted with two hide handles. Ornamentation — Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The two outside bands are remarkable in their want of greater width and are in the thluhl k-yar-nee design. The central band is in the sarh-shar tootsee design. Provenience— Tlingit. This basket was found at Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. Woven by a Yakutat woman who had married into the Chilkat tribe, it is peculiar in its char- 38 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY acter of weave combined with the ornamenta- tion. graph and measured is the one cataloged as 84197.) 196. 84196 Length 28.0 cm, width 18.0 cm. depth 9.5 cm Type— Khuk-khuk-wiik Function — Woman's workbasket. Construction— Basket with cover complete. The bottom is in khark-ghee-su't weave and close weave (two-strand twining); the walls are in close and open weaves. (The lid is finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245, while the body is finished with border 7.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass and fern stems. The walls are in the hootz kus-see'-tee design and the cover is in thluhl k-yar-nee and kah-ghu 'n kar-ha V- ku. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XIV, no. 2.) 197. 84197 Diameter 9.5 cm, depth 1 1.8 cm TYVE—Athle yet Function— An individual's saltwater cup. It has been used to hold red ocher paint for personal decoration. Construction — Made of spruce root and fitted with a single handle of twisted spruce root. The bottom is in khark-ghee-su 't weave and the sides are in close weave (two-strand twining). (The border is not described.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with a piece of the tail feather of the yellow flicker. There are three ornamental bands in the sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee design. Above and below the upper and lower bands are vertical lines of ornamentation, klaok shar yar kee'-kee alternating with yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see. Provenience— From an old shaman's grave house on the Alsek River, back of the Chilkat divide. (The basket cataloged as 84197 does not match Emmons's description. Specimen 84197 is in the form of an athle yet but lacks a flicker feath- er; also, the designs are different. Two bands of the guth-lu 'h-kii design are separated by a band of the thluhl k-yar-needesign. Below is a vertical design known as short ghe-kulth kah ka 'tch-ul- tee. The basket ends with border 4 [Emmons, 1903, p. 246]. The basket shown in the photo- 198. 84198 Diameter 9.5 cm, depth 7.5 cm Type— (No native name given.) Function — An experimental effort of a little girl learning to weave. Children would use it as a plaything and to hold berries for eating. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Ornamented with bands of colored root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Deshu, the Chilkoot branch of the Chilkat tribe. 199. 84199 Diameter 16.5 cm, depth 12.5 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Covered basket, used as a woman's workbasket, with a rattle in the top. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — The two false embroidery bands of grass on the sides are in the khu wou kus say-ya '-yee design, enclosing kha '-tu. The cover is in thluhl k-yar-nee. and between is the kah-ghu' n kar-ha' r-ku design. Provenience— Tlingit. A very old specimen pre- served for a generation or more by an old Rus- sian family at Sitka. 200. 84200 Length 27.8 cm, width 20.0 cm, height 16.0 cm TyvE—Sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee Function— Shaman's hat worn upon occasions of ceremony and in practice. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 2, Emmons, 1903, p. 246.) Ornamentation— Ornamented throughout with false embroidery in grass and fern stem. It is in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design, with two nat- uralistic figures, said to represent wolves, on each side. Provenience— Tlingit. From the Hoonah tribe, found at Sinta-ka-heen-ee, Juneau. These hats WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 39 are the rarest pieces of root and grass work found among the Tlingit. It has been many years since one has been woven and the few ever found have been procured principally from old grave houses of deceased shamans. 201. 84201 Diameter 34.0 cm, depth 42.8 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function— These baskets are in general used by all of the southern coastal people to hold cloth- ing and, when traveling by canoe, as packing cases for household implements, food, and other necessaries. Construction — Made of the inner bark of red cedar in the regular checkered weave (plaiting), but just under the border it is in open weave. The edge is finished by turning down the warp ends and twining them to the standing warp strands (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation — Ornamented with bands of dyed bark. Provenience— Tlingit. From Fort Wrangell, the Stikine tribe. 202. 84202 Diameter 28.0 cm, depth 25.5 cm Type— (Probably tchu-qwelth.) Function— (Was probably made to be sold.) Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 'I weave, while the sides are in alternate encircling bands of close weave (two-strand twining) and open weave. (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation — Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The middle band is in the sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee design. The upper and lower bands are in the shuh-tiick ou-hu ' , kohk- thla'-ku, ku klate-ar kii-ou, yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see and klaok shar yar kee'-kee de- signs. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 203. 84203 Diameter 8.0 cm. depth 1 1.5 cm Type— Athle yet Function— A saltwater drinking cup or individ- ual's drinking basket. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished by turning under the ends of the warp strands on the inside and securing them with twining (the border Emmons described [border 7, 1903, p. 247] does not correspond to that of the basket cataloged, which has been cut off flush [border 3, 1 903, p. 246]). Fitted with a handle of twisted spruce root. Ornamentation— The false embroidery band in grass is in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From KJukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 204. 84204 Diameter 8.5 cm, depth 12.0 cm Type— Athle yet Function— Saltwater drinking cup or individual's drinking basket. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished in ropelike, two-ply weft twining (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). The basket, to be hung on the wall, has been fitted with a single handle of twisted spruce root. Ornamentation — The false embroidery in grass consists of three bands. The upper and lower bands are in the kon-naste and the double kha '- tu designs. The middle band of ornamentation is in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan (the principal Hoonah town now generally called Hoonah), Fort Frederick, Chichagof Island, the Hoonah tribe. 205. 84205 Diameter 8.5 cm, depth 12.5 cm ] Type— Athle yet Function — Saltwater drinking cup or individual's ] drinking basket. Construction— Made of spruce root in close! weave (two-strand twining) and fitted with a twisted spruce root handle. The edge is finished I in flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 1 1 [ or 12). Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- 1 broidery in grass and fern. The two outer and I broader bands are in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee \ design; the middle band is in (// kheet-see'-tee. 40 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Provenience— Tlingit. From Gaud-ah-kan, Hoonah tribe of Chichagof Island. the manship and believed to have been made in Yakutat. 206. 84206 Dimensions not recorded 209. 84209 Diameter 29.5 cm, depth 24.5 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— Shallow, basinlike basket used for screening or winnowing berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in middle weave, with the warp ends turned over and fin- ished in a flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 1 1 or 1 2). Ornamentation — Unomamented. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, the Chil- kat tribe. (Sent to Brooklyn Institute in 1906.) 207. 84207 Dimensions unknown Type— (Not identified.) Function— Fancy fiat basket. Such baskets were made for sale and not for use. Construction— Made of spruce root. Between the ornamental bands the basket is in open weave. (The border has not been identified.) Ornamentation— The upper and lower false em- broidery weave is in the ichu'-nate koutch tar- ou ' design. The middle band is in the khu wou kus say-ya '-yee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (No longer in Field Museum's collection.) 208. 84208 Diameter 26.5 cm, depth 31.0 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Basket carried on top of the back to receive freshly picked berries. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). There are two han- dles of twisted hide. (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two wide bands are or- namented in false embroidery in grass with a conventionalized variant of the dar-war kus-see dta-ye design. The horizontal stripes themselves represent the yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see de- sign. The center band is in the ut kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Klukwan, the Chilkat tribe, but of Yakutat weave and work- Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Woman's workbasket, also carried on top of the back to hold berries. Construction— Made of spruce root and fitted with caribou loop handles well down on the out- side of the walls, after the Haida fashion. In the close weave (two-strand twining), reinforced on the bottom in overlaying twist. (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two wider bands of false embroidery are in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee de- sign and the middle band is in ut kheet-see'-tee. Below the bands is the yan-nar-ate kah tuck- tar-see design. Provenience —Tlingit. Found in the Queen Char- lotte Islands but of Tlingit workmanship and believed to have come originally from Yakutat. 210. 84210 Diameter 7.0 cm, depth 9.8 cm Type— Athle yet Function— Saltwater drinking cup. Construction— Made of spruce root in the reg- ular weave (two-strand twining); the edge is trimmed flush. (Finished with border 1, Em- mons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The whole exterior is false em- broidered in grass with the ars suck har ha'- yar-ku design. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Ketchikan, but of northern make or perhaps woven by a more northern Tlingit. 211. 84211 Diameter 24.8 cm, depth 20.8 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka 'r-r Function— Carried on top of the back to receive freshly picked berries. It has been used to pack away small pieces of clothing. Construction— Made of spruce root in both khark-ghee-su 't weave and close weave (two- strand twining). The top is finished by turning down and twining over the warp ends (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 41 broidery in grass and fern stems. The two broad- er bands are in the kon-naste design and a vari- ant of the kha'-tu. The middle band is in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. Provenience— TUngit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. broidery bands are in the sha 'r-dar yar-a 'r-kee design. The middle band of ornamental grass work is in ut-kheet-see'-lee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Angoon, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 212. 84212 Diameter 25.0 cm, depth 23.0 cm jjg 34315 Diameter 19.8 cm, depth 13.2 cm Type— Tchu-qwelth Function— A bag or packing case for clothing and small articles. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The whole design area is de- fined by bands of dyed weft material. Two wider bands of false embroidery in grass are in the sha' r-dar yar-a' r-kee design; the middle band is in ut kheet-see'-tee. Provenience— Tlingit. Made in Sitka, the Sitka tribe. T-i PE— (Not identified.) Function — A new basket, probably made to be sold. Construction — Basket made of spruce root in the plain twining weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 2, Emmons, 1903, p. 246.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with grass and fern stems. The upper and lower bands are in the kon-naste design, in the center of which is ut-tu-wa'rk-kee. The middle band is in the thlukh qwar-ye'-tee design, with the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design above and below. Provenience— Tlingit. Made at Gaud-ah-kan, the Hoonah tribe, in 1901. 213. 84213 Diameter 25.5 cm, depth 24.8 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Used on top of the back to carry ber- ries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 12, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) It is fitted with two caribou skin loop handles. Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass and fern stem. The middle band is in the sarh-shar tootsee design; the two outer bands are in kitch hon-ar-ghart. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, the Huts- nuwu tribe. (Appears to be identical to a basket from KJukwan illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XI, no. 2.) 216. 84216 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 10.2 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— A woman's covered workbasket for small articles. Construction— Covered basket of spruce root. The bottom in khark-ghee-su 't weave, the sides and top in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— On the sides, the false em- broidery in grass is in the ee-na and kon-naste ar-kee' -kee Atsi^s. Around the base is the thluhl | k- yar- nee dtsign; the side of the cover is likewise in this design. The middle of the cover is in gwulth ha ecu 'tch-ee, outside, two circular bands are in klaok shar yar kee'-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. (Illustrated in Emmons, 1903, pi. XV, no. 4.) 214. 84214 Diameter 13.5 cm, depth 13.2 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Basket carried around the neck to hold freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Probably finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation— The two broader false em- 217. 84217 Diameter 17.5 cm, depth 8.8 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Covered basket with rattle in top. Used as a woman's workbasket for small articles. Construction — Made of (plain and dyed) twined spruce root. (The bottom and rim are in khark- ghee-su't weave, the sides and top in two-strand 42 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY twining.) (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The sides are in the ku klate- ar ku-ou and shuh-tuck ou-hu ' designs. Below, at the base, and around the side of the cover is the khartse kut-r-ka-dee design; the cover is in thluhl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka. 218. 84218 Diameter 4.8 cm, depth 3.8 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function — Basket made for a child as a plaything. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining) after the fashion of the regular berry basket. The warp ends are turned down on the inside and twined with the weft in the regular finish (Emmons, 1903, p. 247. border 7). Ornamentation— Plain, with the last spirals of weft strands in color. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo. the Huts- nuwu tribe of Admiralty Island. 219. 84219 Diameter 26.0 cm, depth 28.0 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function— This character of basket was used for a variety of household purposes, but principally to pack small pieces of clothing. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). Toward the top are seven spirals of three-weft-strand weave (three- strand twining). The edge is finished by a flat plaiting of four extra weft strands over and un- der the outer thread of the last spiral of twining; the warp ends are trimmed off flush (Emmons, 1903, p. 246, border 6). Ornamentation— The ornamentation is in col- ored bands of dyed weft and is distinctively Hai- da in character. Provenience— Haida. Procured on Queen Char- lotte Island by Capt. Chittenden in 1886, it is of Haida workmanship. 220. 84220 Diameter 16.5 cm, depth 15.8 cm Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished by turning in the warp ends and secur- ing them with the twining (Emmons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in root and fern stems. The two broader bands are in the sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee design and the narrow middle band is in klake da kheet- see'-tee. Provenience— TUngit. From Sinta-ka-heen-ee, the Auk tribe. 221. 84221 Diameter 16.0 cm, depth 15.2 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su 't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The two broader bands of false embroidery are in the kon-naste and kha'-tu designs. Between these bands is the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 222. 84222 Diameter 14.5 cm, depth 7.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— Woman's covered workbasket. (Cov- er is missing.) Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with bor- der 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The design of the walls is in a favorite, old combination of designs repre- senting kishot enclosing a series of sig-ga-dee' tee '-shee and klaok shar yar kee'-kee. The whole design is sometimes referred to as de-gar. Provenience— Tlingit. From Douglas Island, the Auk tribe. Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to receive freshly picked berries. 223. 84223 Diameter 13.0 cm, depth 10.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 43 Function — Suspended around the neck to receive freshly picked berries. Construction — Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border is fin- ished by a two-ply twining of weft strands over the turned-down warp ends (Emmons. 1903. p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass and fern stem. It is peculiar in having slightly flaring sides and widely separat- ed ornamental bands. The upper and lower or- namental bands are in the klaok shar yar kee'- /cfe design; the middle band is in sha 'r-dar yar- a 'r-kee. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. (Emmons be- lieved this basket was made in Hoonah or by a Hoonah woman married into the Chilkat tribe.) 224. 84224 Diameter 12.5 cm, depth 13.5 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended around the neck for re- ceiving freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in the khark- ghee-su't weave peculiar to this people (the Chilkats, who greatly favor this weave, accord- ing to Emmons. 1903, p. 240). The border is in sennit over the turned-down warp ends (Em- mons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). It is fitted with two twisted root handles. Ornamentation— The two bands of false em- broidery are in a design called sarh-shar tootsee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 225. 84225 Diameter 1 1.5 cm, depth 9.8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Suspended around the neck to receive freshly picked berries. Of the size most fre- quently carried by children. Construction — Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 't weave, with several spirals of close weave (two-strand twining) at the bottom and top. The border edge is finished by turning the ends of the warp strands under and enclosing them in the last spiral of twining (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248, border 12). Ornamentation— As is the fashion among this people (the Hutsnuwu), the basket ornamenta- tion consists of colored root bands near the bor- der. Provenience— Tlingit. From Angoon, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 226. 84226 Diameter 10.0 cm, depth 10.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function — Suspended around the neck to receive freshly picked berries. It is of the size that would have been carried to the berry fields by a little giri. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-sii 'I weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 4, Emmons, 1903, p. 246.) Ornamentation— The false embroidery in grass is peculiar in having two bands different in character. The design of the upper band is shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-ul-tee. Below this is the guth-lu'h-ku design. Above the bands, about the border, is the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design, which also occurs near the bottom together with the ut-tu-wa 'rk-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Douglas Island, the Auk tribe, but more probably of Hoonah origin and workmanship. 227. 84227 Diameter 9.8 cm, depth 9.0 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to receive berries. Of the size used by children. Construction— Made of spruce root. This is a unique specimen and the only basket in this weave, the three-ply braid or twining, that had ever been seen (by Emmons). This character of weave, from its strength and stiffness, is always used to form the crown of the spruce root hat as well as the ornamental cylinder for such a hat. The bottom is in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). The border edge is finished in sennit enclosing the warp ends (Emmons. 1 903, p. 248, border 11). Ornamentation— Unomamented. Provenience— Tlingit. Found at Douglas Island and thought to have come from the Chilkat. 44 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 228. 84228 Diameter 12.2 cm, depth 1 1.2 cm Type— Sahk-kah lo'n-nar Function — Suspended around the neck to hold berries. Construction — Made of spruce root. The bot- tom is in khark-ghee-su't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). Spirals of three-ply twining are used at the turning up of the sides and at the edge. (Finished with border 2, Emmons, 1903, p. 246.) Ornamentation— The two broader bands of false embroidery are in the kon-naste design, with the double kha-tit between. The narrow medial band is in ut kheet-see'-tee, while above and below the ornamental bands is the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 229. 84229 Diameter 1 1 .0 cm, depth 1 1 .8 cm Type— Sahk-kah to'n-nar Function— Carried around the neck to hold fresh- ly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 7 weave except in the ornamental band. Fitted with two handles of hide. The border edge is finished by turning the warp ends under (Em- mons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in grass. The two wider ornamental bands are in the kha' -tit and kon-naste ar-kee'- kee designs. The medial band is in thluhl k-yar- nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sinta-ka-heen-ee, the Auk tribe. Provenience— Haida. From Queen Charlotte Is- land. 231. 84231 No dimensions available Type— (Not identified.) Function— Carried around the neck to receive freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). About the top are twelve spirals of the three-ply weft weave (three- strand twining), alternating with the regular twining. The border edge is finished with a four- strand plaiting through the last spiral of the twining; the warp ends are cut off flush (Em- mons, 1 903, p. 246, border 6). The handles, well down on the walls, are of five strands of cord. Ornamentation — Unomamented. Provenience— Haida. From Queen Chariotte Is- land. (Could not be found in Field Museum's collection.) 232. 84232 Diameter 18.0 cm, depth 6.2 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function — Shallow basin used to screen berries when picking in the field. Construction— Made of spruce root in the khark- ghee-su't weave which is peculiarly Chilkat in character. The edge is finished by turning the warp ends inside and securing them with a four- strand, flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, bor- der 12). Ornamentation — Unomamented. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 230. 84230 Diameter 12.0 cm, depth 15.0 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function— Used to hold freshly picked berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining) with alternate spi- rals of three-ply weave (three-strand twining) about the border. It is finished in a four-strand plaiting through the outer weft strand (Emmons, 1903, p. 246, border 6). Ornamentation— Ornamented with spirals of three-ply weave (three-strand twining) about the border. 233. 84233 Diameter 16.5 cm, depth 6.0 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— Shallow basin used to screen berries when picking in the field. Construction— Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su't weave, except for the last twelve spi- rals of weave at the border, which are in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished by turning the warp ends under and securing them with a four-strand, flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 45 Ornamentation— Ornamented around the rim with skip stitch. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 234. 84234 Diameter 27.0 cm. depth 28.5 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function — Such a basket would be used to hold pieces of clothing, odds and ends, and household articles, but more particularly as a packing bag for canoe travel. Construction— Made of the inner bark of red cedar in twined open weave. The border edge is finished by turning the warp ends over and se- curing them with the last spiral of the twining. (Finished with border 7, Emmons, 1903, p. 247.) Ornamentation — Unomamented. Provenience- Tlingit. From Wrangell, the Sti- kine tribe. 235. 84235 Diameter 17.5 cm, depth 5.2 cm Type— Kul-tiils-ar yet Fltnction— Shallow basin type used to screen ber- ries, carried in the pack basket to the berry fields. Construction — Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su't weave. At the border are several spi- rals of close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished in flat sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12). It is fitted with one handle of twisted hide. Ornamentation— Unomamented. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 237. 84237 Diameter 42.0 cm, depth 1 7.5 cm TwE—Tarlth Function — Used by women as a workbasket in basket making. Construction — Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 't weave, with a strengthening band of close weave (two-strand twining) about the bor- der. The edge is finished by turning the ends of the warp strands under and securing them with twining. A second line of twining over the bight of the turned-over warp protects them. (Fin- ished with border 12, Emmons, 1903, p. 248.) The basket is fitted with two twisted spruce root handles. Ornamentation— Ornamentation consists of four circles of colored and plain root alternating in the two types of weave. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 238. 84238 Diameter 30.0 cm, depth 10.5 cm T\PE—Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— Of the basinlike type used to screen berries. Construction— Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su't weave; the border is in close weave (two-strand twining) with four spirals of em- broidered twist in root. This border edge is fin- ished in flat sennit (Emmons, 1 903, p. 248, bor- der 12). It is fitted with one handle of hide. Ornamentation— Ornamented on the inside with embroidered twist in root. Provenience— Tlingit. Klukwan on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. 236.84236 Diameter 26.5 cm, depth 10.0 cm 239.84239 Diameter 24.0 cm Type— Kut-tuts-ar yet Function— Shallow basin type used to screen ber- ries. Construction— Made of spruce root in khark- ghee-su 7 weave, with the border in close weave (two-strand twining). The edge is finished in flat, four-ply sennit (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 1 2). It is fitted with a single hide handle by which to hang it. Ornamentation— Ornamented in plain root in skip stitch with a geometric design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Klukwan, on the Chilkat River, the Chilkat tribe. Type— Khuke too-gu Function — One of four very old mats of the cir- cular type. (Emmons stated that) these were used as plates to put food on in "more primitive times." Construction— Made from spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border is fin- ished by cutting off the warp flush with the line of weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border I). Ornamentation— The false embroidered orna- mentation consists of concentric circles of plain and colored grass and colored root. The inner circle of ornamentation is in the thluhl k-yar- 46 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY nee design and the outer circle is in ichu '-nate koutch tar-ou '. Provenience— Tlingit. From an old house at Sit- ka, the Sitka tribe. 240. 84240 Diameter 25.0 cm Type— Khuke too-gu Function— One of four very old mats of the cir- cular type. These were used as plates to put food on in "more primitive times." Construction— Made from spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border is fin- ished by cutting off the warp ends flush with the line of weave (Emmons, 1903. p. 245, border 1). Where it has been torn, mending was done with spruce root in very rude sewing. Ornamentation— The false embroidery consists of concentric circles of plain and colored grass and colored root. The three embroidered circles are in the design thluhl k-yar-nee. Provenience— Tlingit. From an old house at Sit- ka, the Sitka tribe. ished by cutting off the warp ends flush with the Hne of weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— The false embroidery consists of concentric circles of plain and colored grass and colored root. The ornamental band is in the klaok shar yar kee'-kee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From an old house at Sit- ka, the Sitka tribe. 243. 84243 Diameter 28.0 cm, depth 15.0 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function— Hat. Construction— Made of red cedar bark in plain (two-strand) twining. (Warps are cut off"and two rows of three-strand weave strengthen the rim.) Ornamentation— Red and black paint; repre- sents a mythical animal. Provenience— Nootkan. From the west coast of Vancouver Island. 241. 84241 Diameter 21.5 cm 244. 84244 No dimensions recorded Type— Khiike too-gu Function— One of four very old mats of the cir- cular type. These were used as plates to put food on in "more primitive times." Construction— Made from spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border is fin- ished by cutting off" the warp ends flush with the line of weave (Emmons, 1903, p. 245, border 1). Ornamentation— Ornamented with plain and dyed grass. The inner circle of ornamentation is in the tchu'-nate koutch tar-ou' design; the outer circle is in the same design, although somewhat distorted. Provenience— Tlingit. From an old house at Sit- ka, the Sitka tribe. 242. 84242 Diameter 14.0 cm Type— Khuke too-gu Function— One of four small mats of the circular type. These were used as plates to put food on in "more primitive times." Construction— Made from spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border is fin- Type— Not identified. Function— Used for small articles and as a wom- an's workbasket. Construction— Coiled basket with cover of grass. Commenced around a small circle of hide. Ornamentation— Ornamented with three nar- row bands of skin. Provenience— Eskimo. From Bristol Bay. (Ex- changed with Brooklyn Institute in 1906.) 245. 84245 Diameter 3.5 cm, depth 8.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu 'n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). (Cover is finished with border 7, while the interior is finished with border 1; Emmons, 1903, pp. 245, 247.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery of plain and dyed grass. The basket proper is in the klake da kheet-see' -tee design. The cover has been ornamented with stripes of colored weft. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 47 246. 84246 Diameter 2.5 cm, depth 6.8 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu ' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as shot pouch or bag. Construction — Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and cover are in ordinary close weave (two- strand twining). (Finished with border 7, Em- mons, 1903. p. 247.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery of plain and dyed grass, the basket proper is in the de-gar design. The cover is in plain root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Angoon, Admiralty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 247. 84247 Diameter 3.5 cm, depth 8.0 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as shot pouch or bag. Construction— Made of spruce root. Both bas- ket and case are in close weave (two-strand twin- ing). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in plain and dyed grass, the basket proper is in the sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee design. The cover is in plain root. Provenience— Tlingit. From Killisnoo, Admiral- ty Island, the Hutsnuwu tribe. 248. 84248 Diameter 3.8 cm, depth 10.0 cm Type— Ut tu-qwu' n-see tar-ka 'te Function— Double basket used as shot bag. Construction— Made of spruce root; both basket and cover are in close weave (two strand twin- ing). (Finished with border I, Emmons, 1903. p. 245.) Ornamentation— Ornamented with false em- broidery in plain and dyed grass, the basket proper is in the klake da kheet-see'-tee design. The cover shows colored bands of weft. Provenience— Tlingit. From Dundas Bay, the Hoonah tribe. Construction— Made of spruce root in close weave (two-strand twining). The border edge is finished in a four-ply plaiting. The warp ends are cut off (Emmons, 1903, p. 246, border 6). Ornamentation — Colored bands of weft in the usual Haida design. Eleven rows of three-strand twining decorate the rim. Provenience— Haida. Found in the possession of a very old woman of the Stikine tribe at Fort Wrangell. 250. 84250 Diameter 20.0 cm, depth 7.0 cm Type— Tu-dar huck Function— A woman's workbasket. Construction— Made of spruce root. The cover is missing. The bottom is in khark-ghee-sii 't weave, the walls in close weave (two-strand twining). (Finished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— The walls are embroidered in grass in the kishst design enclosing the larger lozenge sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 251. 84251 Diameter 29.0 cm, depth 14.5 cm Type— Not identified. Function — Used as a workbasket. Construction— Coiled basket of grass. Ornamentation— Ornamented with colored fish skins and yam. Provenience— Eskimo. From the Bristol Bay coast. 252. 84252 Diameter 17.2 cm Type— Tarlth Function— Mat; probably used to serve food. Construction — Made of spruce root in the reg- ular twined weave (two-strand twining). (Fin- ished with border 1, Emmons, 1903, p. 245.) Ornamentation— False embroidered in grass and fern in the thluhl k-yar-nee design. Provenience— Tlingit. From Sitka, the Sitka tribe. 249. 84249 Diameter 23.0 cm, depth 22.5 cm Type— (Not identified.) Function— Used as a workbasket for small arti- cles of clothing, moccasins, and the like. 253. 84253 Diameter 38.0 cm, depth 33.5 cm Type— Kah-tihk ka'r-r Function— Carried on top of the back. 48 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Construction — Made of spruce root in the reg- embroidery in grass are in the shon ghe-kulth ular twined weave (two-strand twining) and kah ka'tch-ul-tee and hootz kus-see'-tee de- strengthened about the bottom of the walls with signs. The narrow medial band is in the ;// kheet- several spirals of twist weave. The border is fin- see' -tee design. ished in the old manner of turning the warp Provenience— Tlingit. Found in use as a clothes down and twining it into the standing part (Em- bag at St. Paul. Kodiak Island. It was procured mons, 1903, p. 247, border 7). in trade from Kayak Island or Yakutat and is Ornamentation— The two wide bands of false of Tlingit manufacture. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 49 cm Figure 1 50 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 'l> as D O *)^-v;A'.viviir.., WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 51 52 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 3 O WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 53 5 cm Figure 5 54 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY SiSBi ii^uy^ — .ii^'— --■- \ .,,iHtiii^' i^-"^^ '■■■"■ Figure 6 WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 55 Figure 7 56 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 5 cm P S3. 49 WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 57 58 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY iM> ' O -C : -o ^ t J3 lO j2 ^*~* ^ c s — c ^ o U &0 ■o :i2 ^ u > -■- O ? en « ij -a •c2 c " " S " ■S M <§■§ ■5 E 2 S ■S .'' S" i •- a § 1- S g 3 9.S S o c o 80 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Ethnoarchaeological Analysis It is often claimed by archaeologists that the best analysis or typology of artifacts is one that relates to real categories used by the original manufac- turers (Chang, 1967, p. 78). Archaeologists are an- thropologists with the goal of reconstructing past cultures, studying their changes through time, and ultimately understanding general principles of cul- tural development and change. For studies to re- flect accurately the culture of another society, ar- tifacts must be placed in classes that relate directly to categories used by the original makers. While K. C. Chang ( 1 967) argues that archaeological clas- sifications should reflect cognitive structures of the people who made and used the artifacts, others have claimed that archaeologists, lacking living informants, cannot reconstruct folk taxonomies (Thomas, 1979, p. 112). As an experiment in typology, each basket in the Emmons collection has been plotted on a two- dimensional grid. The aim here has been to discern a classification close to the one Emmons was able to obtain from his informants. It is assumed in this analysis that people possessing the same cul- ture are able to interact and communicate with some degree of success. This success can only be had if the cultural categories dealt with are discrete and have similar meanings for all participants. This premise provides anthropologists with a method for reconstructing categories of culturally significant artifacts when no informants are avail- able. For discreteness to be maintained, attributes that consistently distinguish the categories must exist. When the distinguishing feature is purely the ex- istence or lack of a single attribute, it is difficult to be certain that this feature truly distinguishes cultural categories. Most frequently, however, two or more unrelated attributes consistently distin- guish categories, so that it is relatively certain that the categories were distinguished within the orig- inal context. When the attributes are size, number, weight, color, form, or any dimension that can be placed along a linear scale, one can recognize dis- tinctive features by plotting these attributes' fre- quencies of occurrence along that scale. The most commonly occurring value along a dimension or scale is a mode (Moroney, 1965, p. 43). If distinct modes occur along a continuous scale, one can assume that the range of variation that separates the modes was intentionally avoid- ed. Discreteness is derived by the avoidance of ambiguity, e.g., a plate is generally distinct from any saucer. A study of the physical dimensions and other attributes of many plates and saucers will reveal the one or more that can be used to distinguish them. Different sets of dimensions or attributes may establish subcategories of the initial division, e.g., butter plates, salad plates, and din- ner plates. These modes are the culturally signif- icant categories. In an archaeological study, the dimensions of space and time can be controlled by selecting the areas excavated for obtaining a sample. An ideal ethnographic sample should also come from a tightly defined area and a limited period of time. The ideal sample for a study of material culture comes from contemporary craftsmen living in a single village. The Emmons collection is largely composed of northern Tlingit baskets, but some southern Tlingit, Haida, Eskimo, and Aleut pieces are also included. These foreign baskets are not likely to reflect the culturally significant categories of the Tlingit and should therefore be separated from the study sample. It is also important to note that the 50 or more years during which the baskets of the Emmons collection were woven was a pe- riod of radical cultural change. By 1890 tourists were already visiting Alaska, and some baskets were being made especially for sale. To adapt to the market and to save effort and material, open twining became more popular and the largest bas- kets were no longer made. Some utilitarian forms, such as buckets and cooking baskets, became ob- solete and dropped from the cultural inventory (Corey, 1983). A truncated, conical-shaped basket and various decorative forms developed to meet market demands. These changes could be discov- ered with careful stylistic sedation, but in this study the aim is to demonstrate that most culturally sig- nificant categories can be discovered by using mul- tidimensional scales. Further study could no doubt isolate other significant patterns of variation. Basketry Types Five distinct regional styles can be recognized in the Emmons collection. The first is a style of coiling found among the mainland Alaskan Es- kimos, the second a style of plaiting common to the southern Tlingit and Haida. The remaining three are the distinct twining styles of the Haida, Aleut, and northern Tlingit (Jones, 1982). I. Eskimo Coiling— The Eskimo coiled basket, WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 81 number 251, is distinguished by its characteristic construction, design, and material. Coiled baskets of this type are only found in significant quantities north of the Tlingit area. II. Southern Plaiting — Three cedar bark plaited baskets, numbers 151, 152, and 201, can clearly be distinguished from the remainder of the collection. These would be considered as either functionally distinct or as of foreign make. The spatial distribution of similar baskets demon- strates that these were of southern Tlingit or pos- sibly Haida make. III. Haida Baskets— A number of twined bas- kets with horizontal stripes of dyed weft material and rims ornamented with skip stitch designs fall within the size range of Tlingit twined baskets, but their ornamentation is distinct. Baskets 153 and 230 were probably used as front-of-body baskets, while baskets 2 1 9 and 249 were most likely carried on the back when picking berries. These four are woven in a clockwise direction (left to right with the warps pointing down), while all Tlingit twined baskets are woven in a counterclockwise direction (left to right with the warps pointing up). From ethnographic information it is known that this dif- ference in direction is due to the position of the baskets while being woven. Haida and Aleut bas- kets were woven in an inverted position, but Tlin- git baskets were held upright. This difference in the direction of weaving is good evidence that the Haida baskets are distinct from Tlingit ones, but the Haida origin can only be proven by compar- ison with a sample obtained from the Queen Char- lotte Islands. IV. Aleut Baskets— Basket 165 is similar in many respects to Tlingit baskets, but it is made of grass and its false embroidery decoration is of commercial thread. It should be noted that Aleut baskets were also held in an inverted position while being made. Their weave spirals from left to right with the warps pointed down, as with Haida bas- kets. Basket 165 would need to be considered as a unique creation until comparisons were made with other baskets from its area of origin. V. Northern Tlingit Baskets— These were twined of split spruce root and ornamented with false embroidery of grass. Several varieties of weaves were commonly used in making Tlingit baskets. These include two-strand twining, be- tween weave (plaiting with alternate rows of two- strand twining), three-strand twining, and cross warp twining. A strengthening weave, called em- broidered twist by Emmons (see Glossary II: Tech- nical Terms), is basically the same as false em- broidery, but, instead of using grass, a strand of split spruce root was used as the third element. Each of these weaves functioned differently. Two-strand twining was used most widely for strong, tightly woven baskets. It was also always used as the backing for false embroidery orna- mentation. Three-strand twining and embroi- dered twist were used at the basal comers of large baskets where added strength was required. Three- strand twining was also used for the crowns of all hats. Between weave was used where great strength was unimportant. This weave required 25% less weft material and significantly less time. It also permitted the use of the coarser inner portion of spruce root which could not be used in two-strand twining (Emmons, 1903, p. 240). Between weave was most frequently used on large baskets and on basket bottoms. Corey notes that between weave was also frequently used under rims and for the bottoms of rattle chambers (pers. comn.). Cross warp twining was used to make decorative baskets that required no strength. Baskets made for tour- ists were frequently made with this open weave because relatively large, beautiful baskets could be produced with a minimum of labor and material. Spoon baskets were frequently made with open- work because this weave allowed air to circulate and water to drain from the basket. For decorative purposes the Tlingit sometimes produced a textured, patterned weave known as skip stitch where, at regular intervals, a weft ele- ment crossed over two warp elements. This weave was used on the brims of hats. The Chilkat most often used this weave to produce a decorative pat- tern on their otherwise undecorated baskets. Bas- kets were finished by either cutting off the warp ends flush with the last row of twining or bending the warp ends over on the inside and twining them together with the adjacent standing warps. Baskets were begun with a single method of securing a group of warp strands with one weft strand. A second weft strand was added after the warps were secured in a radiating pattern. Six distinct form categories can regularly be rec- ognized in the Tlingit basketry inventory. These include mats, bowls, cylindrical baskets, double baskets, truncated conical baskets, and hats. These categories show no overlap of form on Scale I (fig. 32) and are easily distinguished as separate cate- gories by a cursory inspection. Scales II-V (figs. 33-36) were designed to reveal more obscure cat- egories. 82 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Analysis of Tlingit Basketry Forms A. Mats— Only one class of flat circular mat can be distinguished in Scale III (fig. 34); it has a range of size between 13 and 31 cm. One example out of 1 4, number 141, consists of some openwork twined weave. Specimens 140 and 160 show some between weave and lack false embroidery, while all of the remaining 12 mats are ornamented with false embroidery and lack between weave. Mat 160 shows an edge that begins to turn up and is obviously a bottom of a cylindrical basket. Mats 140 and 141 must be considered as distinct ex- amples that may belong to an unidentified bas- ketry type. Emmons states that all but one of these 14 bas- kets are of the khuke too-gu type, which are used as food mats. Mat 160 is called tchii-qwellh and Emmons describes it as a complete basket; ap- parently only the bottom of basket 160 remains. Basket 141 is distinctly described as an ornamen- tal basket, and it may have been made to be sold. The remaining 1 2 baskets are all said to have been used as food mats. B. Bowl-Shaped Baskets— Scale IV (fig. 35) shows that two distinct size categories of round bottom bowls can be perceived. 1. The smallest size ranges from 4 to 32 cm in diameter. Frequently a single loop handle of hide is attached to the rim. Two classes of this smaller bowl-shaped basket can be distinguished by weave and ornamentation. a. Unomamented and woven in between weave except for the last couple of centimeters of rim, which is either in plain weave or skip stitch. b. Completely in the plain weave with false em- broidery in grass on the interior. The distinction between class a and b of type 1 is purely regional. All of the plain bowl-shaped baskets with between weave are made by the Chilkat. Two of the baskets of class b are from Sitka, and basket 188 is said to have been received in trade. Baskets 123 and 1 24 are both said to be Chilkat, but in style they are unlike most Chilkat baskets. Emmons states that all but one of these baskets were used to screen berries and that the smaller ones were also used to serve and eat berries. Basket 160 cannot be distinguished from the other berry screening bas- kets; however, Emmons states that it was made as a child's workbasket for basket making. 2. The second variety of open bowl-shaped bas- ket is represented by three examples ranging in diameter from 42 to 52 cm. These larger open bowls lack loop handles, false embroidery deco- ration, and skip stitch. All three exhibit a large area of between weave, and two of the baskets are or- namented with dyed weft elements. Emmons states that these three baskets were of the Tarlth type, which was used as a basket maker's workbasket. C. Cylindrical Baskets— This is the most var- ied category of baskets in the Emmons collection, with at least six distinct sizes. Scale II (fig. 33) shows the size distribution of these. 1. Between 6.5 and 8.5 cm in diameter and 9.0 and 12.5 cm in depth a small, compact cluster of baskets can be distinguished. These are always deeper than they are wide, with a ratio of depth to diameter of 5:4. They usually have a single bridge-type handle of twisted spruce root. Em- mons identified all these baskets as being at hie yet, used for ceremonially drinking salt water. 2. Between 3.0 and 5.0 cm in diameter and 2.5 and 4.0 cm in depth are clustered baskets 121, 133, 134, and 218. These are roughly woven, unor- namented baskets that lack any evidence of covers. They are easily recognized as the products of un- practiced weavers. Emmons confirms that they were made by little girls learning to weave. 3. Baskets 113, 114, 126, 127, 128, 129, and 198 cluster neatly between 6.0 and 10.0 cm in diameter and 6.0 and 8.0 cm in depth. These are all ornamented with false embroidery in grass or skip stitch but, unlike most baskets decorated with false embroidery, have only a single band of de- sign. Emmons identified most of these baskets as being of the kuhk ku 'hk-ee type, which were used as berry collecting containers for children. Basket 172 appears to be of the same type; however, it was made as a practice basket by a young weaver. 4. A large group of baskets ranging in diameter from 7.0 to 2 1 .0 cm and in depth from 9.0 to 1 8.0 cm can be discerned on Scale II. These are finely woven and usually ornamented with two wide bands of false embroidery separated by one finer band. The wider ornamental bands are usually mirror reflections of the same design. Loop han- dles, on opposite sides of this type of basket, fre- quently extend above the rim. Emmons recorded that this basket type, called sahk-kah to 'n-nar by the Tlingit, was suspended from the neck by a woman picking berries (fig. 37). Berries were de- posited in this type of basket and, when the basket was filled, emptied into a second basket carried high upon the back. The great range of sizes is apparently due to the fact that women and children of all ages picked berries. Children used smaller WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 83 baskets than adults, so baskets were apparently constructed for the specific needs of individuals. Baskets that are purported to have been used by children are all clustered at the smaller range of variation. 5. A larger size of basket, with loop handles attached to its rim and false embroidery decora- tion in three bands, is like the smaller sahk-kah to 'n-nar in all respects: however, it can be distin- guished by its size distribution, between 20.0 and 40.0 cm in diameter and 20.0 and 30.0 cm in depth. Little overlap with the smaller berry baskets occurs. According to Emmons, these baskets, called kah-tihk ka'r-r, were carried high on the back as pack baskets to receive berries from the smaller baskets. When the small front basket was filled, the berries were poured into the back basket (fig. 37). 6. A still larger type of basket, with a diameter over 40.0 cm, is represented by five examples, numbered 1, 3, 4, 5, and 12. This category is called kluckt tar-tu 'n by the Tlingit. Baskets 6, 8, 58, 60, 61, 80, 190, 208, and 253 also appear to have belonged to this class. Emmons identified basket 190 as being of this type, but its incomplete design shows that it has been cut down from its original height. Baskets 58 and 80 have also been cut down and probably belonged to this class; Emmons re- corded that these two baskets were found on Ko- diak Island, where reliable information on their use probably could not have been obtained. Em- mons wrote that basket 60 "is of the type kah- tihk ka 'r-r but its size is rather too great to carry in this way (i.e., on the back) and it was used more to hold the berries which were poured in from the baskets carried on the back." In other words, it functioned as a ground basket but was designated a back basket. Basket 253 is also said to have been a kah-tihk ka'r-r but, according to Emmons, it was used as a clothes basket. Basket 6 also appears to have been a kliickt tar-tu' n used secondarily as a clothes basket. The remaining baskets, 8,61, and 208, appear to be more closely related to the largest category by their position on the scale, but they are designated as being of the kah-tihk ka V-r type. Since basket 60 was considered by Emmons to be too large to have been carried on the back, it can reasonably be assumed that baskets 8,61, and 208 also must have been too large. The ambiguity of this group of baskets is suggested by both the scale and Emmons's notes. Generally it appears that all of these intermediate baskets belonged to the larg- er size category. 7. A number of baskets with diameters ranging from 9.0 to 23.0 cm and depths from 6.0 to 14.0 cm are one and one-half to three times as wide as they are high (fig. 32). These baskets are generally covered over their entire exterior surface with false embroidery ornamentation. In our sample, most of these have lids; however, in the event lids and bodies have been separated, an undecorated area about 2 cm wide around the rim usually indicates where a lid once existed. Included in this class are baskets 7, 59, 83, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 97, 98, 181, 199, 216. 217, 222, and 250. The knobs on the covers of these baskets usually con- tain a few pebbles or shot to produce a rattling sound. D. Open Weave Cylindrical Baskets— The sample of open weave baskets is too small to define significant categories with certainty, but at least two types seem to be present (fig. 32). 1. Baskets in cross warp twining with bridge- type handles and usually taller than they are wide. Baskets 32, 107, and 194 have diameters that range between 6.0 and 15.0 cm and depths between 9.0 and 23.0 cm. The greater proportion of height to width and the bridge handles distinguish these bas- kets from the next group. Emmons states that bas- kets 107 and 194 were used as spoon baskets. Number 32 was used by a shaman to store bird down. 2. Baskets which lack bridge handles and tend to be proportionally less tall. The two baskets in this class, 1 50 and 234, are said to have been used for storing odds and ends, including spoons, on canoe trips. Both of these baskets are made of red cedar bark, and it appears that their distinctiveness from the above spoon baskets is due to their more southern origins. E. Truncated Conical Open Weave Bas- kets— This type is represented by baskets 2, 100, 101, and 202. The sides are flared outward and are ornamented with two or three bands of false embroidery set apart by bands of open weave. Diameters range between 20.0 and 39.0 cm and depths between 16.0 and 26.0 cm (fig. 33). The larger two baskets of this type have three bands of ornamentation, while the smaller two have two bands. According to Emmons, these baskets had no special function and were made most frequent- ly to be sold. F. Double Baskets— Small, finely woven dou- ble baskets have diameters ranging between 2.0 and 6.0 cm and depths between 5.0 and 13.5 cm (fig. 36). These baskets are, in reality, composed of two baskets that fit snugly, one over the other. Bodies of double baskets have constricting sides 84 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY and are finely ornamented with false embroidery. Covers have expanding sides and tend to be simply ornamented. Only the bodies have been entered on Scale I, whereas Scale V shows the distribution of both parts. The two forms are easily distin- guished when one considers the ornamentation and the expanding or contracting sides. Diameter and depth cannot be used to distinguish bodies from covers, but three size categories clearly stand out: 1. Baskets 10.0 to 13.5 cm deep and 3.5 to 6.0 cm in diameter with approximately a 2: 1 ratio of depth to diameter are called shot baskets by Em- mons, but there is a good possibility that these are a distinct variety used for storing bird down. Both Emmons (1903, p. 255) and Paul (1944, p. 37) mention that double baskets were used for storing bird down. 2. Smaller baskets with approximately a 2: 1 ra- tio of depth to diameter having a range in diameter of 2.0 to 3.5 cm and, in depth, of 5.5 to 9.0 cm. These are probably the true shot baskets. 3. Baskets never deeper than 4.0 cm and be- tween 3.0 and 5.0 cm m diameter. According to Emmons, these were used by women as snuff con- tainers. G. Hats— These have not been plotted on a scale because the small sample that occurs in the Emmons collection is inadequate to recognize any of the types as being distinct. A larger sample should show that each hat in the collection is a distinct type. H. Unidentified Variations— Baskets 69. 99, 130, 136, 169. 178, 186, 196, and 215 must be considered variations without sufficient represen- tation to be placed in any category. Several of these had specific functions which are described in Em- mons's notes. Conclusions This analysis of the Emmons collection of Tlin- git basketry shows that it is possible to reconstruct most of the significant categories described by Em- mons. It has also been possible to find some evi- dence that suggests at least one categor\'. double baskets for bird down, is present in the sample but not recorded by Emmons in his notes. Had eth- nographic data been lacking, functions of the var- ious categories could have been discovered by studying patterns of wear and traces of the con- tents. Some anthropologists have expressed doubt that cognitive categories could be discovered with- out direct input from living informants (Thomas, 1979, pp. 109-1 12). The intent of this analysis has been to demonstrate that by using multidimen- sional scales, a fairly good reconstruction of actual categories is possible. Appendix Key to Scales— The horizontal axes of Scales I-V (figs. 32-36) record the diameter in centi- meters of baskets in the Emmons collection, while the vertical axes record their depth. An identifying number consists of the last three digits of the cat- alog numbers (Scale I). In order to better distin- guish the meaningful units, the other dimensions have been coded. Baskets with cylindrical shapes are shown as solid circles (•); those with curving walls are shown as solid squares (■). Truncated conical baskets are indicated by solid triangles (A). Noncircular baskets are marked with an open cir- cle (O). The presence of bridge-type handles and overall decoration in false embroidery also aids in distinguishing basketry types; however, these at- tributes are not recorded on the scales. The pres- ence or absence of lids has not been used directly as a diagnostic trait since, in a less well-docu- mented archaeological sample, covers would probably be separated from baskets. Undecorated areas around the rim of otherwise fully orna- mented baskets do, however, correspond directly to baskets with lids. Many features, such as type of weave, start, finish, location of handles, design zones, and design elements, can be profitably ana- lyzed to recognize cultural categories. (For an ex- ample of Tlingit design analysis, see Gunther, 1984.) In order to simplify this study and use the fewest number of dimensions, diameter and depth have been selected as the most discriminating attributes for distinguishing the cultural categories. These measurements allow the researcher to separate out the size categories most efficiently, and also permit the recognition of distinct functional categories. Size dimensions of the distinct form categories are studied separately on Scales II-V. Finally, some patterns related to technique and decoration are discussed under the summary of each of the de- rived basketry categories (fig. 3 1 ). WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 85 r , f! »= 5 ■ 8 5 . S § I '# si ■ 8 8 ® '/f „ i -5a if §1 c i2 ■o ^ x x> ^.« (« o B & c E " j: .5 « ■t! ca o o . •S ■- c U ■ 'U ■0*2? u IJ rt •Sac X (« o ■^^"^ .§!« aj y? OX) > u C ■S iS^ ■0-° u 3 M C/5 , C i» luuuuuuuuaiuuaiUUiuui lu ■ t/) ■•g "-o ^. t/i w. U (U c9 •S tS 3 ■o'-o - .5 c " _ o cfl ■ — ■ «/) " a S ■gSs aj (U o x: XI .1= HE" ^ 3 C ^ C "U o „ a O « c« o o . U5 U 2 £■3 « e -^ '" 'S c <" 8 w t -o u — S ^ ^ ja (A (/] U a a G x>— a — u S «-s:; 7, ° " S.s-g v) K .S c „ 1^ Eg -S'-o' 86 FIELDIANA; ANTHROPOLOGY 3V - 30 2^ — •70 •64 AlO •23d •lOI 28 ^ •219 ^jfK 27 — •161 26 ,„ •!« ^87 »203 25 J°i.5 "" ^ •2» 24- — •" •'" ^7^ 23 - •" III •*• «12 *°> •194 .249 •aj 2? — .192 •« 21 — %1 20 — •l?8 •37.J7 •74^6a .36 19 — 18 • 40 •41*'«.176 •IS *179 17 "~ •39 •'" •l^ •M .00 16 — ^„ ^.220 "^ '" 15 — •230 .42 «f^0 .19 •53 _ U 13 I Hi' I 2U .« «'5 •"» ^ 12 - •146 •U5 •205 "«.7<, .199 0186 11 10 : i'.u •U4 "^ ^^^ • 27 •48*228 •a3 •9' _„„ 2 •98 0094 9 • •227»« ■116 'u:"' •04 •217 8 — •\5a»^*7 J^ 7 - •175 •1?9 •128 •126 ••113 •198 •ii!"' ta •97 ■118 •222 •^^ •250 1188 •92 ^232 6 — •U7 •IBI • ? .233 ■'80 5 - ■117 4 — •170 •121 •218 3 • 13d •132 ■123 2 1 - •133 ■ , ilS9 ^42 PJ*ji^ j»252| ]p9 1 JfO^^W'l 1 I239 J240 | | 1 i*0 1 | 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Fig. 32. Enlarged portion of Figure 32 shown on facing page. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 87 '''.'' i I 1 1 I ' I I, I I I I I I I I i j I I I I I 88 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 29 28 — 77 — 26 25 2-1 2 22 21 20 \9 18 \7 16 15 14 13 12 1' 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 — 2 1 • • • • • • s • • • < * { * • • • 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Fig. 33. Enlarged portion of Figure 33 on facing page. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 89 CM — ij_j_^_y_y_^.^_^_i^ 90 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 • #00 • o t ° — o o o — • -- o 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 12 3 4 5 6 Fig. 36. Scale (in centimeters) of double baskets. Solid circle (•) indicates the inner basket and open circle (O) indicates the cover. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 91 Fig. 37. Tlingit berry baskets. 1, kluckt tar-lu' n. ground basket; 2, kah-tihk ka'r-r. back basket; 3, sahk-kah to'n-nar, front basket. 92 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY ^ n n f ] f ' -^ c h<; ibx; "^-d >j :3 T^ i^^^^^^- >3 bt:^^^i>^^ ?^:^^Kr>: r 'c. J u ^ L H =i&! 3 4 Fig. 38. Basketry weaves. 1, two-strand, or plain, twining; 2, two-strand twining with false embroidery; 3, plaiting; 4, coiling. WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 93 Glossary I: Tlingit Terms Ar-sou-kee Ars suck har ha'-yar-ku (aasak'w ayahaayak'u) Athle yet (eil' yeidi) Chatl-koo-woo (chaatl koowu) Chetle tar-ka'te Dar-war kus-see dta-ye Dar-war tar-yee Dar-war tar-yee dta-ye (daawaa tayi t'aayi) Dar-war tar-yee dta-yee De-gar (deegaa) Dsu-na Ee-na (eenaa) Gaud-ah-kan Gaudekan Guth-lu'h-ku (galakii) Gwulth ha cou'tch-ee (k'walx s'aach kakooch'i) Haltle thlu'-ku (xeiti I'oot'i) Hiktch hee-ha'r-see (xixch'i xaas'i) Hit kuhk Hook clee Hootz-ah-tar Hootz kus-see '-tee (xoots x'useeti) Hutsnuwu Itiktch he-ha'r-see Kah date tu-see-ar (x'adaat dus- aak) Kah-ghon' kus-see 'tee Kah-ghu'n kar-ha'r-ku (k'aagan kahaakw) Kah-tihk ka'r-r (kaadix' kakakw) Kar-tlu'ck-jar Unidentified village on Freshwater Bay Design, "the echo of the spirit-voice of the tree reflected in shadow" Basket, saltwater cup Design, "the tail of the halibut," see tchartle ku'-ou Basket, "the spoon-bag" Design, "checkers-foot-board" Design, "the checkerboard" Design, "checkers-under-board" Alternate spelling of dar-war tar-yee dta-ye Design, "the scoop-net used in taking of the candle-fish" Basket, "to pack on back" Design, "the split through which the roasted root is drawn to scrape off the bark" See entry below The principal village of the Hoonah (called Gaud-ah-kan by Emmons) Design, referring for the Yakutat to either "a floating object which appears and disappears successively" or "the irregular, winding line of drift and seaweed along a shore left by the receding waters." Other Tlingit translation, "the labret of the woman's root hat." Design, "the young fronds of the fern as they come up from the root and curl around it" Design, "the lightning." caused by the opening and closing of the eyes of the mythical thunderbird Weave, "rough or uneven." like the skin of the frog's back, from its mottled character, see itiktch he-ha'r-see Design, "house-basket." An old design, which occurs on a very old shaman's drinking basket from Chilkat. Tlingit word for soapberries See Hutsnuwu Design, "the footprint of the brown bear" Refers to the Tlingit group living on the west and south coasts of Admiralty Island, called the Hootz-ah-tar by Emmons Word for skip stitch, see hiktch hee-ha'r-see Basket, stationary basket, "to empty into from the back basket" Literally, "the feet of the sun," symbolizing the beams as they radiate from under a cloud Design, "the spawn of the stickleback" Basket, "on top of the back" Design, "a drop of any liquid just at the instant before it detaches itself 94 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Kar-tlu'ckt-jar (kasooljaa) Kete ou-hu' (keet ooxii) Kha-kar shark Khark-ghee-su't (x'aak vis at) Khark kha'rt-se (x'aak kaas'i) Khark kheet-see'-tee (x'aak kas'eedi) Khart (xaat) Khart sarh (xaat s 'aaxw) Khartse kut-r-ka-dee Kha'-tu (keit'oo) Kheet-see'-tee (kas'eedi) Khe'ka kheet-see'-tee Khin nehl khart-see (kin nalgaas'i) Khuke (koox') Khuke sheen (kakw x'eeshaa) Khuke too-gu Khuk-khuk-wuk Khu won kus-sar-ya'yee Khu wou kus say-ya'-yee (x'oow kasayeiyi) Khu wou ottee Kin-da'r-kar (x'eint'aax'aa) Kishot Kish-shar yu't-kee (x'eeshaa yatx'i) Kishst (keishk'ein) Kitch hon-ar-ghart (kichx anagaat) Klake-ar-ton (tleikatan) Klake da kheet-see'-tee Alternate spelhng of kar-tlu'ck-jar Design, "the teeth of the killer whale" Material, grass stem Weave, "between," "in the middle of" from the introduction of a single weft strand passed over and under each alternate warp splint. A weave commonly used by the Chilkat. Design, "a crotch" Design, "middle tying" Basket type, strainer, "will not hold water" Basket type, hat, "root hat" Design, "the stick fish weir" Design, literally, "to turn up," referring to the short arms at the end of the body of the design. A name applied to both the ceremonial club and the war-pick of cruciform character. Design, "tying or winding around," see ut kheet-see'-tee Design, another term for tying or winding around Design, "the flight of the gray goose" Hat ornament, the name of the cylindrical ornamentation rising above the crown Basket type, bucket, "basket ladle or dipper" Basket type, mat. "basket bottom" Basket type, workbasket, see qwutle qwut (used in Emmons, 1903). Appears to be the same as kuhk khuk wuk. Alternative spelling of khu wou kus say-ya'-yee Design, literally, "blanket-border fancy picture." This design refers to the ornamental colored borders of the old blankets made by Hudson's Bay Company for Indian trade. According to Dauenhauer (1981), this is better translated "the strange design on a blanket." Design, "belonging to the blanket border" Labret, "the largest labret or mouthpiece worn by the older women" Basket, "crossing"; general name applied to any openwork basket with reference to the weave and not the shape, see kishst Basket, "a small bucket" Design, "crossing"; see kishot for alternate spelling. Dauenhauer (1981) translates this as "jumping across." Design, "the rainbow," literally, "the wings of different colors" Design, "the cross-piece of the fish drying frame, on which rest the small rods which carry the split fish," literally, "one straight" Design, "one tying" WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 95 Klaok shar yar kee'-kee (kakw shayakayadi) Klart Heenee KJau shar yhut-tee KJuck-ki'sh (dush) Kluckt tar-tu'n (tlakw tatan) Kohk-thla'-ku (xaat x'uxu) Kon-naste (kaneist) Kon-naste ar-kee'-kee (kaneist daakeidi) Kon ta'r-yee (k'aan t'aayi) Kou'sh-tar kus-see'-tee (kooshdaa X useeti) Kuhk khuk wuk Kuhk ku'hk*ee (kakw kakwk'i) Kuhk tar-yee (k'akw takaayi) Ku klate-ar ku-ou (dieit aa koowu) Kum-tu-gee-hit tar sarh (kamdujixidi) Kunel-sak hath-see Kut-kha'r-nee (kit xaani) Kut-tuts-ar yet (kadadzaa yeidi) Mus-shu't tar-ka'te Naste (kaneist) Qwun kheet-see'-tee (x'wan kas'eedi) Qwutle qwut Sahk-kah to'n-nar (seigataana) Design, "the half of the head of the salmon-berry"; represented by isosceles triangles variously placed. Translated by Dauenhauer (1981) as "half of a basket's child." A village of the Hoonah tribe at Bartlett Bay Design, "small sand hills." According to Emmons (1903, p. 271), the Yakutal used this term for groups of several rows of triangles. Design, "the tadpole" Basket, "to sit up in one place," "stationary" Design, "the peculiar flake-like appearance of the flesh of a fish cut along the line of the greater axis" Design, "the cross," borrowed from the Russian word for cross Design, "the half cross" Design, literally, "the porpoise board" Design, "the trail of the land otter" Basket, another Tlingit term used by Emmons for workbasket. Appears to be the same as khuk-khuk-wuk. Basket, smallest size of the cylindrical type; used as an eating dish for children and also as a plaything Basket, "half basket is the primitive cooking vessel" Basket, "the tail of the snow-tail." Dauenhauer (1981) gives the meaning as "the white one's tail." Hat, finely woven and elaborately painted hat Design, "the squirrel's tail"; according to Emmons (1903, p. 274), a variant of the shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-ul-tee design used as a tattoo pattern on the back of the thumb Design, "the spear barb," such as is used in sealing and salmon spearing Basket, "beating-or-shaking-under vessel," so called from its use as a berry screening vessel Basket, a word used by Emmons (1903, p. 255) for "chewing- bag" or "cheek bag" Design, "the cross" Design, "the tying about the skin trousers or leggings," referring to the embroidery of split porcupine quill on caribou skin trousers and, more particularly, the ornamental garter below the knee Basket, "round or egg-like belly." Not mentioned by Paul (1944) but used by Emmons, see khuk-khuk-wuk. Basket, compounded of two words meaning "to hang from around the neck in front of the body" and "the noise made by throwing the berry into the basket as it bounds from side to side" 96 HELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Sarh (s'aaxw) Sarh klin (a'aaxw tlein) Sarh-shar tootsee Sark qwa a 'r-kee Shar-dar Sha'r-dar kuhk (shadakoox') Sha'r-dar yar-a' r-kee (shadaaya- aakx'i) Shar-dar yar-ar-kee Shark tu ku'hk-ee Shon ghe-kulth kah ka'tch-ul-tee (kaa jikool kajoolani) Show-ou tar nu-ku Shuck kuhk (shakw kakw) Shuh-tuck ou-hu' (shakdak ooxu) Sig-ga-dee' tee'-shee (s'igeidi t'eeshi) Sinta-ka-heen-ee Son-nay Sounah Stikine Su-yet Tahk Tarlth Ta'r-wark kus-see'-tee (t'aawak x'useeti) Tchartle ku'-ou (chaatl koowu) Hat, common type worn by either sex, particularly in canoe travel Hat, large hat, finely woven and elaborately painted Design, "the labret of the woman's hat" Design, "hat work" Hat, "around the head," used as a ceremonial headdress (Emmons, 1903. p. 256). Not mentioned by Paul (1944). Hat, "the ceremonial root hat surmounted by the ornamental cylinders of fine work" Design, "work or embroidery around the head." A Tlingit type of headdress worn by a shaman. Hat, worn by a shaman, Emmons's spelling for the object. Alternate spelling of sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee. Basket, "straw basket." According to Emmons (1903, p. 259), this refers to any basket ornamented with false embroidery in grass. Design, literally "old-person-hand-back-of-tattooed" Design, a Yakutat term meaning "the outside of the tent shell," or the limpet Design, "the strawberry basket," a simple design formed in the construction of a basket. See strawberry weave in Glossary II. Design, "the tooth of the larger tropical shark" Design, "the beaver skin stretching and drying frame" An Auk village near Juneau Basket, "rough." Applied to unomamented baskets, but most often refers to Chilkat baskets which lack false embroidery. Tribe, called Saya or Sanyakoan. living formerly at Gash at Cape Fox (Hodge, 1907-1910, p. 463) Tribes, called the Stickheen by Emmons Basket, another word used for the small berry basket suspended around the neck Weave, "twist," refering to bands of false embroidery used to strengthen baskets (Emmons, 1903, p. 242), see uh ta'hk-ka Basket, "spread out," a broad, shallow, basinlike basket, used as a basket weaver's workbasket (Emmons, 1903, p. 253). It is also translated by Emmons as "flat" and is said to be an oval mat used as an eating dish for dried berries and roots (Emmons, 1903, p. 257). Design, "the footprints of the Canada goose" Design, "the tail of the halibut," see chatl-koo-woo Tchook-ate (chookeit) Basket, "a vessel between," referring to its size between the largest and the second size of berry baskets WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 97 Tchu'-nate koutch tar-ou' (chooneit kuch't'aawu) Tchu-qwelth Teliae or Tellar Thlae-has-yuk Thleetle (tl'iikx) Thluhl k-yar-nee (lool kayaani) Thlukh qwar-ye'-tee (tl'ukx x'a- eeti) Tla-thlu' (theilii) Tooke (t'oogi) Tsar tuts-sark-a (tsaa s'oogu) Tsate ou-hu' Tsutsk gu-nar-see (ts'itsku naasi) Tuck-clae-way tee Tuck tar-ka'te (tax'daakeit) Tu-dar-hook ah-yhum-r-r tun-nee Tu-dar buck (tudaxakw) Uh ta'hk-ka (at doogii or adoogii) Uh-tah yark tu-twage Ut kheet-see'-tee (at kas'eedi) Ut kohk-thla'-ku Ut-ku's see yar-a'r-kee (at x'oosi yatx'i) Ut-kut-see (at x'as'i) Ut tu-qwu'n-see tar-ka'te Ut tu-tihk-kha (dix' tudix'a) Ut-tu-wa'rk-kee (atuwaagi) Wark kus-ka'rt (wakkaskaat) Design, "the feather wings of the arrow" Basket, any kind of open cylindrical basket which might be utilized to pack clothing and household articles for storage or travel The meaning of this term is uncertain, but Emmons used it with the Eyak, e.g.. Eyak Teliae of Prince William Sound Probably the same as Hlahayik, a former Yakutat town on Yakutat Bay (Hodge, 1907-1910, p. 552) Basket, "a rather flat sea-worm that lives under boulders along the shore at tidewater," the name of a rather long, elliptical basket or bag Design, "the leaves of the fire weed" Design, "the mouthtrack of the woodworm" Design, "butterfly." According to Dauenhauer (1981), this is the word for moth. Basket, cradle Design, "the hair-seal's ribs" Design, "steps," or literally, "steps' teeth." The Yakutat people call this design ars suck har ha'-yar-ku. Design, "intestine of the sooty song sparrow" Probably the same as the Daktlawedi clan of the wolf moiety at Chilkat (Hodge, 1907-1910, p. 267) Basket, "bit-bag," applied to the diminutive, flat, double tobacco case Basket, another variety of woman's covered basket, elliptical in form Basket, "noise inside," for the rattle contained in its knoblike handle Weave, "twisted." Dauenhauer (1981) knows this weave as dateix', see tahk. Weave, "outside lifted up and put around," known here as false embroidery Design, "tying," see kheet-see'-tee Design, "the peculiar flake-like appearance of the flesh of a fish cut along the line of the greater axis," see kohk-thla'- ku Design, "footprint work" or "footprint embroidery" Design, "the open jaws" Basket, "shot bag" Design, "the backbone" Design, "the eye" Weave, "eye holes," from the polygonal meshes of openwork weave, resembling an eye in outline and called cross warp twining 98 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Wou'sh-ka-dee kha'-tu (woosh kadaa keit'oo) Woush-ka-dee' kheet-see'-tee (woosh kadaa kas'eedi) Wou'sh-ka-de kon-naste (woosh kadaa kaneisdi) Wou'sh-ka-ee sha'r-dar yar-a'r-kee Woush kate kut-lu't-tee (woosh kinaadei adi) Woush nuh-kha kha'-khee (wooshnax kayeigi) Yan-nah Yan-nar-ate kah tuck-tar-see (yaanaeit tukatasi) Yehlh ku'-ou (yeil koowii) Yehlh ta-ka' Yu'd-dar shark (yadashaak) Yulth thlu-thlee'te nu'-ku (yalooleit) Yun-nah kar-ar-kee Design, "the double kha'-tu" Design, "double tying" Design, "the double cross" or "towards each other" Design, "double the work of the shaman's hat" Design, "one within another" Design, "joining together" Basket, "to pack on back" Design, "the wild celery cut up in lengths for chewing" Design, "the tail of the raven" Design, "the hood of the raven." Dauenhauer (1981) believed this may be raven's cradle, yeil t'oogu, but states that raven's hood would be yeil shadaaadi. Basket, "face of straw," referring to baskets ornamented with false embroidery Design, "the outside of the smaller scallop-shell" Basket, "top to lap over," a type used by a shaman to store bird down (Emmons, 1903, p. 255) WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 99 Glossary II: Technical Terms Between weave Chilkat weave Close weave Coiled weave Cross warp twining Embroidered twist Equisetum False embroidery Four-strand weft plaiting Maidenhair fern Middle weave Open weave Overlay Overlaying twist Plain twining Plaited border Plaited border with extra weft strand Plaiting Skip stitch Strawberry weave Three-strand twining A Tlingit technique of weaving in which alternate rows of plain twining are separated by plaiting Same as between weave; called Chilkat weave by Emmons because it is commonly used by this tribe See two-strand twming A basketry technique with a horizontal foundation laid in a spiral or coiled around to form the basket. Successive spirals are wrapped and sewn to the preceding spirals (fig. 38, no. 4). An openwork weave in which alternate warps run diagonally in opposite directions. Twined weave joins the warps at their crossing. A term used by Emmons to describe a weave used by the Tlingit to strengthen baskets. The weave is identical to false embroidery except that all three elements are of split spruce root. Genus commonly referred to as horsetail A decorative technique in which an element of grass is wrapped around the outer weft element. The slope of the decorative element is the reverse of the twined weft elements of split spruce root (fig. 38, no. 2). A type of border that requires four horizontal elements (Emmons, 1903, p. 248, border 12) Adiantum pedalum L., used as an ornamental element in basket weaving The same as between weave A weave showing open spaces between the rows of weft A decorative technique in which elements of grass and fern stem cover the outer surface of the weft. It is often used in other basketry areas of North America. Emmons used this term to describe a repair technique. The same technique as Emmons's embroidered twist. Both terms refer to false embroidery in split root. See two-strand twining Refers to border number 1 1 (Emmons, 1903, p. 248) Refers to border number 12 (Emmons, 1903, p. 248) A weaving technique in which single elements cross over and under one another at right angles without any twisting (fig. 38, no. 3) A patterned twined weave produced by passing over two or more warps at regular intervals The pattern produced when one of two twined weft elements has been dyed A twined weave in which three weft elements are used. Two warps are enclosed by each of the weft elements such that only one of the three elements emerges from between each 100 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY pair of warp elements. Used as a weave to reinforce potentially weak areas. Three-strand twist A term used by Emmons for three-strand twining Two-strand twining Also called plain twining or close weave. The simplest form of twining in which two weft elements twist around consecutive warp elements (fig. 38, no. 1). Warp The rigid vertical elements of a weave Weft The flexible horizontal element of a weave Woof The term used by Emmons for weft WEBER: NORTHWEST COAST BASKETRY 101 Literature Cited Adovasio, J. M. 1977. Basketry Technology: A Guide to Identification and Analysis. Aldine, Chicago, 182 pp. Chang, K. C. 1 967. Rethinking Archaeology. Random House, New York. 172 pp. Corey, P. L. 1983. Tlingit spruce root basketry since 1903, pp. 137-138. In Holm, Bill, ed., The Box of Daylight: Northwest Coast Indian Art. University of Washington Press, Seattle, Wash. Dauenhaher, N. F. 1981. Appendix to spruce root basketry of the Alaska Tlingit. From the reprint of the 1944 original by F. Paul, Spruce Root Basketry of the Alaska Tlingit. Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sitka, Alaska. Emmons, G. T. 1903. The Basketry of the Tlingit. Memoirs of the American Museum of Natural His- tory, 3(2): 229-277. GuNTHER, E. 1984. Design Units of Tlingit Baskets. Sheldon Jackson Museum. Sitka, Alaska, 36 pp. Hodge, F.W. 1907-1910. Handbook of American In- dians North of Mexico. Bureau of American Ethnol- ogy, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., Bull. 30. Jones, J. M. 1982. The Art and Style of Western Indian Basketry. Hancock House. Blame, Wash., 56 pp. Lee, M. 1981. Pacific Eskimo spruce root baskets. American Indian Art Magazine, 6(2): 66-73. Low, J. 1977. George Thornton Emmons. The Alaska Journal, 7(1): 2-11. Moronei, M. J. 1965. Facts and Figures. Penguin Books Ltd., Baltimore, Md., 472 pp. Paul, F. 1944. Spruce Root Basketry of the Alaska Thngit. U.S. Department of the Interior, Washington, D.C., 80 pp. Thomas, D.H. 1979. Archaeology. Holt, Rinehart and Winston, New York, 510 pp. 102 FIELDIANA: ANTHROPOLOGY Field Museum of Natural Histoi-y Roosevelt Road at Lake Shore Drive Chicago, Illinois 60605-2496 Telephone: (312) 922-9410